Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys sorry to bother you

but i have heard that the series 2 turbo is steel wheel ball bearing turbo

is this right?

im up for an upgrade on turbo for my car

series 1 r33 1993

i was looking at a gt30/40 turbo

my engine is stock at the moment but will want to do some internal work

once i start doin shit!!!

as the gt30/40 are around 1700 buck mark

i was seein if there was a cheaper alternative

thats goin to give a power im looking at

im looking at about 260rwkw ?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59062-difference-r33-s1-s2-turbo/
Share on other sites

series 2 turbo is ceramic, not steel wheel'd

before you go upgrade your turbo check out prices on/consider

ecu

intercooler

clutch

tyres

exhaust

injectors

boost controller

once i had all of those fitted i would then fit/change turbo

the stock ecu will hold you back and it has boost/fuel cuts, standard timing/fuel maps etc.

aftermarket ecu (power fc, microtech, wold 3d) will have more aggressive maps, settings and are tuneable.

stock intercooler wont do much and you should upgrade to front mount item

stock clutch will get angry over about 180rwkw and slip

you should have some good tyres, 245s or 255s to help traction

replace stock exhaust with 3" turbo back with hiflow cat and front/dump pipe and muffler

replace stock injectors with something bigger, s15injectors are said to be ok (recent thread on this)

boost controller youll need, preferrably electronic (ebc) instead of bleed valve

then after all thats done i'd say new turbo

the current restrictions on the stock gtst are:

ecu

intercooler

boost control

exhaust

get rid of those and add a few more items and youll be ready

of course you can simply ignore our advice and fit a gt30/40 and youll probably get

**** all response, shitloads of lag, angry fuel/boost cut when you it airflow @ 16psi

and lots of heatsoak, wheelspin, clutch burning smell and stressed out engine components

not to mention runing risk or detonation/pinging from injectors and increased inlet temps from stock cooler

also the gt30/40 wont fit to stock manifold so youll need manifold, most likely external wastegate and dump pipe to fit it

hope this helps, someone else may be able to correct/add information to what ive given you

the stock turbo is good for 12psi and probably 210rwkw ?

for probably 260rwkw check out gt28rs or gt28 from garrett, you shouldnt need gt30 for that power mark. sure the turbo may be 1700 but the extra shit you need to make it even run will be 1000 extra, not to mention make it work properly and give good response

I got a SII '98,last of the R33's, it had steel wheels, ball bearing. My car wasn't new, could have been changed, but why change the wheels and not hiflow etc. Ask around, I got a feeling that the last R33's may have been steel.

Why not hiflow, 250rwkw easy, and only $1200 unbolt, give, get back, bolt up. No mods required to dump or mount or oil lines or water lines.

Thanks for the replies

just to let yas know, and forgot to mention, my car is an automatic

it has a 3 1/2 exhaust, gettin a trust intercooler kit very soon

savin for ecu upgrade, apexi avc-r , injectors, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator

and some internal work

this should also come a bit quicker then expected as im sellin one of my other cars

This car will be a daily driver, and will be mainly used on about 10 psi

on the occasion i will be racin the odd person on the street. (keepin within speed limits) haha

and goin out to test and tune, and would be running then, the max amount of psi for my engine and turbo which will still be safe.

i also know i will be up for a rebuild on the gearbox or another type of box that can handle this type of power ( not really wantin to convert to manual)

Thats why i thought gt30/40

once engine work and the other things i have listed is been done. (knowing puttin this turbo on requires external wastegate and manifold, and dump.

i will be happy with the car and power .

Will let yas know on progress.

I have taken the car out on the dragstrip,

didnt spool it up and had a reaction time of like 1.somethin it did a 16.6

as soon as i get intercooler i will take it out again .

thanks again for replies

the difference is that the intake wheel (compressor) is nylon instead of steel which makes it lighter and (apparently) more responsive.

all r33s have ceramic exhaust wheels.

r34s also have ceramic exhaust wheels and a nylon compressor wheel like the series 2 r33s

 

**** all response, shitloads of lag, angry fuel/boost cut when you it airflow @ 16psi

and lots of heatsoak, wheelspin, clutch burning smell and stressed out engine components

not to mention runing risk or detonation/pinging from injectors and increased inlet temps from stock cooler

 

also the gt30/40 wont fit to stock manifold so youll need manifold, most likely external wastegate and dump pipe to fit it

 

hope this helps, someone else may be able to correct/add information to what ive given you

 

the stock turbo is good for 12psi and probably 210rwkw ?

I agree with Paul, If you just want to upgrade the turbo and leave everything else dont bother. because your gonna be stuffed. I am running a gt-2540 and yes its hard to get the power to the ground because the wheelspin is crazy. If you want to upgrade the turbo, upgrade everything that goes along with it. Fuel pump, injectors, intercooler.

Also PaulR33 the GT-25 series are built with an internal wastegate so an external one is not necessary and would just be a waste of money.

I had a look into nissan FAST software and noticed that R33's have 6 different part numbers for the turbo which would mean R33's came out with 6 different turbos.

The manual R33's have two different part numbers for the turbo and the auto R33's have 4 different part numbers for the turbo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...