Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all

since the rb20det turbo is weak and cannot go above 13psi, where closest to the turbo would you put in a boost guage?

theres no point in putting one off the plenum as it will read less up there than down near the turbo...

any photos will be helpful

thanks

Pretty hard to get an engine to idle without vaccum

Unless it is a turbo diesel...hehehehe

Yes near the plenum is where most install them, I recently installed two, one near the turbo and one near the plenum, this was to show boost at the turbo and what was lost through different coolers

hi all

since the rb20det turbo is weak and cannot go above 13psi, where closest to the turbo would you put in a boost guage?

theres no point in putting one off the plenum as it will read less up there than down near the turbo...

any photos will be helpful

thanks

Why'd you want it READ higher, the actual boost your engine see's won't change any, is it so you can look like you're running more boost?

If so get a tyre valve, attach it to you boost gauge line, then go to the servo and pump as much "boost" as you like in to your gauge.

"Hey look fellas, 20PSI and it's not even running!"

Please take the above post in the light-hearted, fun-poking, way it was intended. :rofl:

Edit: Oh and if you do go ahead with the install, why not try to T from the line running to the wastegate actuator, i believe that sources its pressure "signal" from pretty close to the turbo?

pe1818.jpg

This isn't an RB20DET turbo, but its a good picture to show the pipe work (hose) that links from the compressor cover to the wastegate actuator. If you want to read boost at the turbo then T into this line.:rofl:

Edit: Oh and if you do go ahead with the install, why not try to T from the line running to the wastegate actuator, i believe that sources its pressure "signal" from pretty close to the turbo?

That's what I did. Appears to be working fine.

so that black line on the right side is where i want to install my boost guage too?

0osh - it is so i can accurately read boost from its closest source as to not blow the turbo by overboosting it.

if i read 10psi at the plenum, i might be losing 2psi through all the piping and the intercooler thus the turbo is at 12psi... so its so i get a accurate reading

not to be a ricer ghey boy...

pe1818.jpg  

This isn't an RB20DET turbo, but its a good picture to show the pipe work (hose) that links from the compressor cover to the wastegate actuator.  If you want to read boost at the turbo then T into this line.:)

Problem is most later model stock turbo's with boost control solenoids don't have the fitting on the turbo housing.. which can be a pain.

I ususally make a custom fitting up and weld it into a stock pipe.

will it matter if i extend that line a little and make it longer so i can fit the boost guage T aswell as the Boost Controller T on it?

If the hose is too long it will, the longer the hose the slower the response to a boost change, the hosing expands, and with a greater volume of air inside it, dampening the change.

So don't make it too long as your wastegate actuator will take longer to react, and might result in more boost spikes, which kinda defeats your purpose as i understand it.

how did u install it near the turbo?

got any pics of it?

We welded in a vaccum hose connection just after the silicone hose and clamp near the turbo (ie on the cooler piping), this was done on an Evo and I do not have pics sorry...

Alot of racers do this to pic up boost leaks or damaged cores.

Alot of racers do this to pic up boost leaks or damaged cores.

That i can understand, but you'd be better off with a pressure differential gauge, plump the base signal in as close to the turbo as possible, and the other at the same spot as your regular boost gauge.

Then more than a couple PSI drop registering and you know you've got probs. Beats having 2 gauges and doing the mental arithmetic while trying to pilot a car at high speed!

Yes i know technically a regular boost gauge is differential, with the base pressure being the atmosphere, but you can't (easily) change it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...