Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok im not saying that this car doesnt look nice....it just looks so much more different then what i expected.... even though i've only seen the proto-type. im sure its power makes up for the looks, i mean how many street cars that have a V8 with TT in them do you see everyday...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59460-the-r35/
Share on other sites

i thought it would of been best if they kept the tradition going, why would they change the R?

how depressing....

oh well i dunno how to change the topic name so ill leave it as it is.... anything else i should know about the "V35"??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59460-the-r35/#findComment-1134218
Share on other sites

The V35 looks nothing like the “R” series of Skyline; instead it looks like a recipe for a 350z gone wrong. The V35 did not carry on the RB26DETT either, instead now powered by a V6 VQ35DE producing 298Hp @ 6,400rpm/260lb-ft torque @ 4,800rpm on the manual model and 280Hp @ 6,200rpm/270lb-ft torque @ 4,800rpm on the automatic all delivered onto a Rear Wheel Drive system. The V35 has also replaced the Circle-Shaped Rear Lights with an ‘L’ looking shape. Available as a Coupe or Sedan. This is were it gets hectic, there are a lot of V35 models; 250GTe, 250GT, 250GT P 250GT S, 250GT FOUR, 250GT FOUR P, 250GT FOUR S and 250GTm all came with a VQ25DD Engine. The 300GT, 300GT P and 300GT S all came with a VQ30DD. And lastly the 350GT-8 came with the VQ35DE.

There is also a V36, set for 2006 I think, cant remember. Anyways just read through The Next Skyline Section and you will get everything you need to know on the V35 and Next GTR

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59460-the-r35/#findComment-1134242
Share on other sites

i thought it would of been best if they kept the tradition going, why would they change the R?

how depressing....

What tradition? This is what I don't get... Nissan release only 5 (!!11) platforms bearing the 'R' designation, yet people seem to think that GT-R = RB26 or R is synonimous with Skylines whatever...

I ask: What about the C10 and C110 GT-R's????

Are they not GT-Rs in the true sense, being that they were released BEFORE the R32/33/34?

If you wanna talk about GT-R tradition, tradition starts with a capitial C.

If you wanna talk about Skyline tradition, tradition starts with a capital A,B,S,C and R...

Cheers :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59460-the-r35/#findComment-1134349
Share on other sites

Rezz not arguing your point but I think for a lot of people the R series is the defining series of the skyline.

I'm 22 and certainly in my lifetime the skyline is symobolised by the R.

But your point is taken.. damn these love those C's in Japan dontthey!?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59460-the-r35/#findComment-1135188
Share on other sites

the R symbolises invincibility and i think that all skylines in the current series should have one. otherwise doesnt it kind of seem like the "V35" is being left out of the crowd?

kinda like me around here =P

but its not the same series at all. different engine different chassis(???spelling???) and different body. there is hardly anything that is the same except the name.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59460-the-r35/#findComment-1135639
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...