Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i spend 1hr yesterday looking for a good sydney based import dealer on the skyline forum. soo far i rounded up 2, which are powerplay and northshore prestige. yep im gonna avoid the dodge parramatta rd dealers as i've read nothing but shonkyness. :D

well anywayz, i just have 1 simple question. when powerplay or Northshore source skylines from jap on ya behalf. do they do everything like pay for ya car etc ? provided i pay them the money when they request it. when i say pay them, i mean paying their company and not the jap dealer etc. coz originally i was gonna use an import broke like j-spec or PM. but since my parents are payin for some of the cost, they didnt want to pay some jap person that they have never seen. cut the story short, they are basically scared of gettin scammed and not getting the car. soo my only alternative left is to buy it in Aus.

kk, any1 know any other good import dealers that i can look at. also, please tell me if the above company are good. pm me if ya want.

thnx

ohh finally, what are my chances on purchasing a yellow R34 turbo skyline ? is this colour rare ?

can i ask where u got your skyline from ? hrmm i really want yellow, but my parents say it looks too much like some lego car and not serious enuff. they told me silver will look nice. but i dunno. black is too dark lol. i want something like smoke siliver.

y not just look for it locally + privately?

should be equal in price if not cheaper as you'll save in costs to get it here and compiled + save in time

also, i heard r34 auction prices have risen a bit in japan (not really sure)

not really into silver, i prefer white or black.. yellow is hot too =)

i went with J-Spec to get my R34 GT-T... i can guarantee you there is NOTHING dodgy about these guys. I think you'll find A LOT of cars here at SAU have been found via J-Spec of Prestige Motorsport. I would say a HUGE percentage would be from either of these 2. They seem to have the most reputable name here, so i wouldn't worry about being scammed.

Give J-Spec a go, i know they've still got plates for 34's, and the compliance place is in Sydney, so handy for you as well.

cheers,

chinny

P.S. if you've got any q's about importing/J-spec just give me a buzz if ya want.

ouch ! dude that sux, did u wanna check out justcar or famous car insurance for a quote..

i get absoulty nailed with insurance for my 33 gtst but, i love it so much it dosnt matter.

what are you looking at getting instead ? what do N/A slivias go Like ? thats what id go for probly :) and bling it all up a notch. BAM !

hey wylie, i've got 10+ quotes from justcar. all of them are around $2860. im 19 and on a NCB of 30%. im not happy at all. just because i live in NSW(yeh, high crime rate etc) doesnt mean i need to be wacked with a insurance quote of 2860. while other ppl in perth vic etc only need to pay 2100.

dont get me wrong, if it was 2100, ill be like yehh and go along with it. but $2800 to secure something is a joke.

what i mite do is, buy a r32 gts-t (thats if the 15yo rule remains), drive that for 2yrs on 3rd party. when i reach my 50% NCB, im gonna sell the gtst and buy my r34 na. but im still unsure for now.

hrmm might even consider the r33 gts. but the only reason i dun want to is becoz im scared that since its a non turbo, noone will want to buy it when i sell it in 2yrs time, or the return value will be crap :). but if u can assure me it will get sold just as quick as a turbo skyline, then ill think about it. + gts are only around $14000 while the r32 gts-t sits on $12000.

yeah thats about the same as my quote should be, im with justcar but i dont have as good a no claim bonus, so im payin a bit more - i had an accident ( single car, mine ) with NRMA a while back in my old car ( they let me keep my no claim bonus ) just car wacked me on the lowest one, OUCH ! - it was dumb of me to make the claim with NRMA, i should have paid for it out of my pocket.... ahhh hindsight - but since NRMA let me keep my no clair i though JustCar should bring that across to but they didnt want to hear about it.

anyway it will be good next year when insurance comes around and ive got some bonus points back again, my wallet will appreciate it for sure.

yeah im not sure about the resale on GTSs, i know id want turbz if i was goin a line - i really think the insurance rates Blow, i dunno if it would work but you should be given a better quote depending on your record more-so than your age, like if you have been driving for 3 - 4 years with no tickets no accidents - then there should be some releif from the under 25 nail ya with 400 bucks ya sucka excess.

R32 on 3rd party might work out ok for ya, what i dont like on the 3rd party policy from just car is that with fire and theft i think they still only want to give you up to 5000 if it is stolen or burned or both.

Oh and i got my 33 from Northshore Presteige - they were great to deal with, even sent me a christmas card ! hehe

id reccomend em, oh and i need to duck round there and pick up my rear strut brace off em, havnt had a chance to yet, better get my game on.

yeh northshore prestige seems the way to go. ive seen a line that i want on their site. but the askin price for that gts was 18000. hrmmm, wonder if i could get it for around 14000. probably not. :) but hey, since its non turbo, they might be kind and give it to me for that price.

well i dont really mind what yr it is, but i really want the r33 s2 front bar look. then again i could get a s1 and tell them to add a 400r gtr frontbar bodykit on.

hrmm how much discount did ya get when u purchased ya line ? pm me if u want.

i didnt push for much of a discount as the price for the gts-t was really good and i got a decent trade in for my old car, i think ud be able to get them down a bit or mabey like u said throw in some goodies instead, they had some zorsts there when i got my car that they may put on for you wich would be good

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...