Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Last week I picked up my '95 GTR Vspec.

I'm damn happy with its performance, but I would really like some more bottom end. The car is completely stock. It even has the factory boost restrictor in place.

What can I do to get more bottom end. The car feels like it has no power whatsoever below 3 grand. Now im not too keen on doing too many mods because I am broke. I also dont need any more attention that im getting from cops and the like. So i'd like to keep it as stock as possible (incl stock exhaust).

Opinions and advice please

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59839-stock-gtr-33-feels-slow-what-to-do/
Share on other sites

Make sure the timing is correct.

Change any fuel filters that are old.

Check the plugs and the gaps are correct as well.

Get a compression test done by a mechanic and a dyno.

Just to check where things are at.

If its as bad as you say there may be an underlying fault somewhere.

Plus make sure the factory cat convertor isn't blocked which can cause excess back pressure and loss of torque.

An exhaust will also help bring boost on sooner which will make the bottom end more responsive. (If you have a crappy press bent factory one)

Its just undergone compliance, so all fluids have already been changed, etc etc.

It really isnt that slow, but the take off compared to other gtr's is much slower. Driving around the city at about 2000 revs isnt that much fun. Perhaps I'm being a bit pedantic.

But honestly, there is no pickup from the turbos until about 3-3500 revs. And compared to my old stock gts-t, it's much slower under 4 grand

4 grand up its a monster :P

Would a boost controller help boost pick up any quicker ?

I have one still handy

hi, with a boost controller you will be able to bring the boost on earlier, although not by a large amount.

generally speaking, there is nothing you can do if you are used to the gtst

i have had two gtsts, and am often in a stockish gtr, and i know exactly what you mean about the slowness..

by the time my gtst reaches 4 grand you are accellerating pretty quickly and about to break traction, whereas you really need to keep the revs above 4 grand in the gtr to get a similar response. its normal, just fit the electronic boost controller and get used to it :P

Full exaust/front pipes/hi flow cat first..

then Adjustable Cam gears will help bring boost on alot earlier.

and take out the boost restricter, (won't really help low rpm tho, where the exaust/cam gears will)

very true

well ive been driving it a fair bit for the last week or so.

I'm also slowly getting used to driving it, and becoming more accustomed to its driving style

Revving it out when I need more power, and around the streets up to 3k rpm is sufficient

yeah dont drive it like a wuss!! my last gtr and my current one (both 32s ) seemed a little sluggish below 3500rpm but remember they do rev to 8k! definatly do an exhaust first, 3 inch at least and tuned lengh front pipes with high flow cat, will make more power and more rb26 noise!

have you dropped it from 7k yet??? damn it feels fast when you do that!!

my gtr is stock and I removed the boost restrictor and boost went up from 12psi to 14psi and gave me an extra 22awkw (with standard exhaust) and on the road it blows away a lot of more powerful cars

have you dropped it from 7k yet??? damn it feels fast when you do that!!

my gtr is stock and I removed the boost restrictor and boost went up from 12psi to 14psi and gave me an extra 22awkw (with standard exhaust) and on the road it blows away a lot of more powerful cars

Did removing the boost restrictor give you much better response down low ?

I'm having a fair bit of trouble removing this restrictor. Need to get the right set of pliers :)

Damn, the fuel economy on this thing aint too bad either. Averaging between 11-13 litres/100. Highway/city driving :D

Did removing the boost restrictor give you much better response down low ?

I'm having a fair bit of trouble removing this restrictor. Need to get the right set of pliers :)

 

Damn, the fuel economy on this thing aint too bad either. Averaging between 11-13 litres/100. Highway/city driving :)

Squeeze the restrictor out from the outside, use any sort of pliers and pop it out like a cork, should take you a couple of minutes. probably didnt help much below 3G although definately hit boost harder and pulled better through to redline.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...