Jump to content
SAU Community

DB Rating on a fujitsubo exhaust?


Recommended Posts

Im looking at getting a fujitsubo exhaust for my S15, but I was wondering does anyone know how loud they are, that is how many decibels they are rated at? I know they are quiet, but Im not gonna get one if its not quieter than my current exhaust, so does anyone have some info?

Ta

Sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59865-db-rating-on-a-fujitsubo-exhaust/
Share on other sites

The Fujitsubo Legalis Super R apparently read 91db

http://www.fujitsubo.co.jp/mc-prod/

Should tell you all that you need to know (youll need to get it translated obviously)

http://www.rmsmotorparts.com.au/products.jsp?p=pr

RMS also have decent prices on them brand new (they dont have the LegaliseR for the S15 unfortunantly, not that i see there...but im sure they can get it in if Fujisubo make them)

Im looking at getting a fujitsubo exhaust for my S15, but I was wondering does anyone know how loud they are, that is how many decibels they are rated at? I know they are quiet, but Im not gonna get one if its not quieter than my current exhaust, so does anyone have some info?

Ta

Sam

hey sam,

i read that the power getter (exhaust i have) on an s15 is 93dB at 4800rpm

I've got a Fujitsubo Power Getter on my S13 SR20det. It's an awesome exhaust, doesn't drone when driving at a constant speed but ROARS when you put the foot down.

I got mine dB tested and it was 91-92dB at 5500rpm. Get the Power Getter, you won't regret it!

You cannot judge dB rating off sheets.

All custom pipe bends,piping size,cat size,muffler size,turbo size,engine size matter in this case.

Considering your car is still stock block/turbo/front pipe, you could use there readings for a "guestimate".

Petar.

Hey Horus, I'm running a Legalis Super Ti on mine, quiet as a mouse and good power. Let me know if you want a listen. Fujitsubo are well know for good power with low noise.

I've also drivern a 34 with the same mods with a Power Getter and boy was it loud, droned like a mutha and wasn't very nice IMO.

Hey,

On sound test they want you to rev up to 3/4 of your tacho (i.e. 10,000 rpm tacho = rev up to 7,500 rpm) i think, correct me if i'm wrong

Cheers

Grant

I have the FULL Legalis Super R system on mine (extractors, full pipe etc) it was rated at 92db. But due to ADR's I've put an aussie highflow cat (Magnaflow) and a resonator (Blackbox or Blackwidow or something). The only reason I got the fujitsubo is coz it came with the car in beautiful stainless steel.

If you were buying local don't be a brand whore, just buy a locally built exhaust system and put a fujitsubo muffler on the end if you really have to. At the end of the day its a bit of pipe with a bit of cotton on the end in a can, and any monkey can weld that together... even an aussie one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...