Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest nismogtsx

I bought mine in April this year...

The reason i have not put a month figure is because i have only really had it for half that time as its in and out of workshops everywhere getting it ready for next years Jambo...

ATM my car is in a Driftking @ Aspley (has been there for 3 weeks now) NOT HAPPY JAN... I have good things to say about their work... Just that it takes so god damn long... (and he cant stick to a quote the price has risen over 1 grand)

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by SpecII

Hey Red Sky II, I registered my Spec II Yesterday. Took me from 7:30 in the morning when they open to 4:20 in the afternoon to get it done, fantastic. I would like to say thank you very &*(@$*&% much to the boyz at east perth licencing. DONT GO THERE if the car has any mods. They ran me around all day because of an aftermarket front bar and round clear front indicators. If its stock then no worries. Good luck

Mine got knocked back yesterday afternoon at Welshpool due to a supposed hairline fracture in the front of the muffler and they wanted some disconnected, non-functioning aftermarket foglamps removed. Gotta try again on Monday now.

Stupid thing is that in the boot or hidden elsewhere were the mods that were removed for compliance and registration (eg turbo timer, Air Flow meter, strut brace, racing pedals, etc, Blitz BOV). What do they think I am going to do with them once registered - leave them in the boot !!!

thats hopeless hey, They didnt even get to the boot of mine.

He cheked everything that they normally do, like suspension etc, lighting , horn, wipers ....etc and then went underneath and looked around, nothing to report there because the car is dead stock except for the front bar, thats it. Then as he was walking in to go do my paperwork he decided maybe he should scrutinise the front bar alittle more.

I hope that they dont give you any more crap. its easier to rock up to a carline muffler centre and just get them to give you a report to say that the muffler etc is fine and not leaking and that should be kewl. it seems to me that it is all about liability. as long as someone else is willing to say it is okay and put their name to it then they are happy with that.

what a bunch of Kn*bs

later

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...