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Help Needed With Reaching My GOAL!


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hello every1, basically ia am really new to the import scene and need some help! (due to im not sure if my mechanic is being true with me)

Basically Series 2 skyline stock internals engine mainfold ect ect stock ecu, stock turbo! Before i go any further i must say its auto and im not considering changing to manual. Im chasing a power figure or around 260-300 kwrw??reasonable?I want to be able to beat holdens!!! senators/v8's ss /club sport xr6 turbo a range of cars without a problem vl turbos 350horsepower!! Basically i wanna do this with out making my car a full out race car i still would like realiablity! i want to try and keep as many parts stock as i can for $$$ reasons but what i have to modify i will.

The mods which i have are:

1. 3 inch exhast from turbo all the way to a 5 inch cannon

2. Dump Pipe

3. Apexi SAFC

4. Single Stage boost controller

5. Blitz Turbo Timer

6. About to intall Blitz power meter sj

7. Front Mount (Brand ARC)

8. Pod Filter

Thats about it so far so its basically pretty stock!

Is it worth doing stage 2 on my auto gear box?

Im looking at a garrett B/Brg Turbo Int W/Gate T3 Flange (450-600hp)is this a good turbo? i want to get a turbo that will fit in the stadard stock housing i dont want a high mount turbo i wanna keep it low mount(for $$$$$ reason only)

Im on a very tight budget and i want as much power for $$$ as possible,

what spark plugs will i need?worth buying 660cc sard injectors (side feed)???

what turbos would u suggest for this job (low mount) WIll i need to get forged pistons or anything like that rods?? price and where?

what internals need modifying? anything?and what price am i looking and where?

Will i have to buy an emanage?? or will the stock computer be ok?? What will be the cheapest things to do and what do i have to do to complete my goal?? the power im after will that be enough to kill the cars above??? thankz for looking and for your help if u need to know anything else just post it up or pm me thankz

Also can u plz give me prices of the parts i need and where i can buy them, im on a tight budget keep that in mine. (i have bein told i can get this figure with upgrade gear box turbo injectors and piggy backs??? is this tru? thankz

:bs!: :)

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I'm no expert but I can't see you getting 260-300rwkw with the stock auto box and stock ecu. krsyuiz is making 250rwkw with stock ecu but it's been remapped to suit his application. I've suggested a remap to you before because you can't safely swap to an aftermarket ecu with the stock auto box.

Have you considered a mechanical auto box? A friend of mine recently got a transbrake auto box in his car and it was like $1800 second hand. Unsure of specs etc on it but its a mechanical auto box in the sense it doesn't need the stock ecu to work. So you in theory could then change to power fc quite easily. If you keep the stock box and go with an ecu that works (doesn't do jerky gear changes) you will still have to make the standard auto box stonger, usually I think its referred a stage 2 upgrade.

You've mentioned cost a big problem. A target such as 300rwkw requires $$$ so you can't just say I want this and no spend money. A good depends on what plans you have and how much you expect to run daily, and also you have to take into consideration how much lag its going to place on your system.

I have no idea what Garrett BB turbo you are referring to but at a guess GT30 possibly? They are in the vacinity of 450-600HP. Previous readings I have done (was in a thread two nights ago) that a GT30 on a mild RB25 makes boost by 4400rpm (ish)? Your current turbo probably makes boost by 2500rpm so as you can see its a big step in "lag". Sure you can run 1.4 bar on the sucker but you have to wait that extra 2000rpm for it. Turbo sizing is a balance between target output, effeciency and flow maps (compressor maps). Your best reference for sizing would be to speak to a turbo company (GCG in sydney). Explain your target and see what they recommend. Failing that try your local tuner or workshop where you normally take your car.

660cc sard injectors sound a bit too big for your target, 550c should be reasonable? Anyone else care to comment?

The GT30 (if thats the turbo your talking about) won't fit the stock manifold, although what you pasted mentioned a T3 flange so I could be wrong here.

Other things you'll need to consider are a Z32 airflow meter or equivalent airflow meter as the stock RB25 will max out past 5volts once you crank up the airflow from running more boost. What tyres do you currently have? Have you done any suspension work to assist in handling? Sure you can run stock parts at 300rwkw but it may be a little hard to put the power down to the ground (axle tramp and wheelies).

Here's a good config reference:

GCG Rb25 Hiflow - $1800 from GCG

Tomei 260 Poncams - $880 from nengun delivered

Split dump - already have $0

Hi Flow Cat (very hi flow) - already have $0 - is it a suitable 3" one? (should be)

3.5" exhaust - already have $0

Pod filter - already have $0

Heat shield - around $150

CAI (big one) - around $150

R33 GTR standard intercooler - already have $0

Tomei injectors - sard 550cc - $706 delivered from nengun.com

Tomei fuel pump - suitable item would be gtr fuel pump - $250 second hand

Power FC with boost controller - $1100 and you already have bleed valve, should consider EBC instead (another $350 ish)

Low/rear mount exhaust manifold (like an R31 GTSR) - can use stock depending on turbo

Electric fan - around $150

OS Giken twin plate (very light chrome molly flywheel) - you have auto so upgrade auto box instead. twin plate is around $1400 so auto box upgrade $1400 (could be mechanical box or stage 2 upgrade)

Oil cooler - $600 not fitted

Z32 Airflow Meter - $250

Tyres - $450 each - unsure what ones you have. 255x17 is what I'd go for or 265

That above config sydneykid has used a number of times and makes 250-270rwkw

Total is $7440 and that's not including labour to fit those items, you might be able to do some of them yourself also depending on the item.

These are all estimates and I am by no means an expert. Free advice is all we can offer really

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To aim for 250rwkw.

Piggy back ecu for fuel and ignition

R32/R33 GTR Injectors

Bosch fuel pump

FMIC

3" turbo back exhaust

GT30 600hp SB8006? core into a stock internal gate housing that bolts up to the stock manifold & dump

Rebuilt g/box & mild stall converter

Boost controller (1bar adj. wastegate actuator)

Anything I forgot?!?!

BUT DO THIS FIRST!!!! Dont jump straight in with the big turbo etc.

For the street you want a nice fat power band from down low. Not a peaky car that is difficult to get the power to the ground.

If your still not happy then look at dropping a GT30 SB8006 core in to a internal gate housing that will bolt up to the stock manifold & exhaust. BUT you will soon run in to big $$ with auto reliability issues.

Piggy back ecu (fuel & ignition)

Bosch fuel pump

Rb20DET wastegate actuator (11psi) and bodgy the holes to give you more boost if needed.

FMIC

3" turbo back straight through free flowing exhaust (free flowing = loudish)

Adjustable exhaust cam gear to nudge over 200rwkw.

This will get you around 200rwkw and a car that is fairly quick.

To get it up and off the line a little harder look at changing the stall converter and possibly firm up the gear changes while you are there.

Also look at dropping your diff ratio to that of the R32 GTS-T by using its diff center. Sell your 4.11:1 diff ratio and buy a R32 GTS-T 4.363:1 diff ratio.

Playing with little tweaks like the stall converter and diff will make it that little bit quicker if you want that little more acceleration, but do these mods last.

It won't be beaten off the line easily when playing up to the speed limit from the traffic lights.

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It's a confusing situation with the auto ECU myth....I too used to be a strong believer you couldn't replace the auto ECU while having good driveability, but....

I've got a manual GT-t ECU in the car now, and if anything shifting is smoother, the only thing that can be classed as 'anti-social' is flat to the floor it whill chirp/kick sideways on 1st to 2nd...but you can do that shifting hard in manual.

For the e-manage to be fully effective it's wise to get the full kit, by that I mean timing, injector and pressure sensor harness. If I'd know better I would have got a wolf or PFC and just got a shift kit for the g'box.

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The mods which i have are:  

1. 3 inch exhast from turbo all the way to a 5 inch cannon

2. Dump Pipe

3. Apexi SAFC

4. Single Stage boost controller

5. Blitz Turbo Timer

6. About to intall Blitz power meter sj

7. Front Mount (Brand ARC)

8. Pod Filter

Pardon me if I am brutally frank..............

#5 doesn't make the car go any faster, it just adds weight, throw it away.

#6 doesn't make the car go any faster, it just adds weight, throw it away.

#8 If you don't have a heat shield and a decent ambient air feed, throw it away too and use the standard airbox with a Pipercross panel filter.

Let's examin your competition, a 300 KW Coommondoor or 290 kw GT Foulcan make around 220 rwkw and weigh a bit over 1600 kgs. Thats around 7.3 kgs for every 1rwkw. An XR6T makes around 180 rwkw, that's around 8.6 kgs for every 1rwkw. A VL Commondoor with 350 hp, I assume that's bhp, that's 210 rwkw and around 6.4 kgs for every 1rwkw.

So to be faster than them you need around 220 - 230 rwkw.

For 230 rwkw I would add to your list;

A GCG Ball Bearing Hi flow as Paul suggested (that list looks VERY familiar Paul) (www.gcg.com.au)

A pair of Tomei 256 Poncams as Paul suggested (www.hioctaneracing.com.au)

Don't worry about an adj exhaust camshaft pulley, the Tomei cams don't need it

A set of (six) 200SX S14/15 SR20DET 480 cc injectors (they are side feed like the RB25DET). Try the Silvia forums, they usually have a couple of sets (you will need 1.5 sets of 4)

GTR injectors are top feed and won't fit, well not without extensive/expensive mods

A GTR Fuel pump in tank to replace the GTST pump

Tuning, tuning, tuning of your SAFC

For the gearbox I would go with an upgraded valve body and a decent transmission coooler (take a look in the Stagea section for the details). For your required power level you won't need to upgrade the torque converter.

Suspension upgrade is essential, take a look in the Suspension section for details. Stick with a localy specified setup (www.whiteline.com.au). The Jap ones will be too stiff for your local roads. A decent set of brake pads is a must, probably rotors as well (www.dba.com.au). Stay with 17" wheels and tyres, 18" don't have enough sidewall to soak up the roads you drive on.

MOST IMPORTANTLY, get yourself along to an Advanced Driver Training Course, they have good ones at Morgan Park. Lastly (at 17) please try and stay alive, we have lost far too many Skylines recently.

Hope that helps:cheers:

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will the power blitz meter or the emange take off the speed limter/rev limiter off? or can the car only do 180 safley?can the speedlimter be take on and re adjusted to a bigger speed? or what? what can i buy to take it off and still make it relaiable! also by doing all the mods you have said weill my car stilll be realiable?and what boost can u run through high flowed? becoz i dont wanna get high flowed then hate it and but a bigger turbo i would rather get a bigger low mount with power at the low rpm? is that possible without high flow? high flow still allows to u have low rpm power? plus the injectors and that every1 has different ideas what injectors should i get? i want relabilty thankz

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I don't think e-manage does speed cut, atleast not without a module (although I could be wrong). If you just wanted a stand alone module you can buy a speed-cut module from Japan.

Still - I wouldn't be taking a stock skyline to 180 anyway - sure you can do it but beh it's your life your dealing with.

The bigger the turbo (more power) the more lag - you'll be able to beat the cars you said with a hi flow as S-Kid has said.

The injectors are a matter of being big enough to get enough fuel into your engine to match the air the turbo is pushing in. So for the power level of 220-230 as S-Kid said s15 ones would be enough.

You may be better of saving a bunch of cash together and taking it to a speed shop to build for you.

There are plenty of threads to read up generally that will give you a better idea of what is required for what and what people's experiences are with different setup.

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The GCG high flows are rated at 450 or 500hp on their website, and because of the steel wheels you can run high boost all day every day.

You do pay for them though, but like everything, more power means more money.

Great thing is though it retains internal gate, bolts straight back up and you won't get defected from mr plod.

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any ideas if where i can get this speed cut module?brands?cost?

do i need and greddy oil can catch tank???

hks HKS Adjust Cam Gear worth buying????

what are cum good brands and good products worth doing for this upgrade to the car, (220-250kw) is all i need i have bein told!

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speed cut products:

apexi revs speed meter

hks Speed Limit Defencer

wire cut #53 on ecu

any of the above will remove the speed limit at 180, also remapped ecu can remove it

greddy oil catch can why did you pick that? do you just randomly browser around picking parts and go should i get this, get that?

you dont need adjust cam gear if you fit tomie cams as sydneykid said

sydneykid has said what parts you need, and i have

there are no other parts or cool items you need, the list above is fine

so summary:

injectors

hiflow turbo

gtr fuel pump

gearbox mods

suspension mods

tyres

brakes

you should be able to run about 1.3 bar through the hiflow turbo

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also how much is a resonable price to pay for an emanage with injector harness/igition harness/Pressure Sensor Harness/software??? the full setup? how much and where u can u buy them from brand new?or second hand the betta way to go?and will the emange give enough remapping to do the job right? 1 mechanic said yes another said no so im confused!

1 last thing what type of spark plugs are best to use??and where can i buy them and the cost of them ????? thankz so much

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