Jump to content
SAU Community

New turbo


Recommended Posts

Hey guys I have just had price given to me for a new turbo and power fc for $3,500

what do ppl think of this price the turbo is a gt 35/40 garret. The guys also said there is a much better computer to use now. So all in all what do ppl think.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if that is all brand new that is pretty frickin good isnt it ??? i dont know much about prices on turbos other than i thought something like what you have said would be more like $4,000 - $4,500

but i am a n00b so i will wait for nik or richard to post

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just the normal mods, fmic exaust shit like that. No forges just yet though i would run low boost for a while. Thats not installed or tuned no way would that be install price. I wish. do you think this is to big

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The GT3540 is a very nice turbo, and quite a good price. The problem I have read about is they only come with a 1.06 exhaust housing which is way too big for an RB25DET (more suitable for a rotary and RB30 and XR6T (the XR6T is a 3540 but with a smaller comp cover, .50 instead of .70 like you buy from Garrett).

You can get the turbo modified to a .82 exhaust housing which is alot more friendly and should start to make decent boost around 3500rpm. Do not go for any of the .6x sized exhaust housings as these are too violent coming onto boost and you will just wheelspin everywhere.

A guy off these forums fitted one on his RB25DET by the name of NisJet, it made 210rwkw on 12psi. His car has 3 inch exhaust, intercooler, power fc, fuel pump.

--- EDIT ---

Do a search for GT3540 and you will see a few people that have run them. Most that keep the large 1.06 housing have forged internals and need to rev the car to 8000rpm to make good power out of it. Also does that price include a new manifold? I think it was Roy on these forums a while ago wrote you need spacer plates to put it on the stock manifold or else the comp cover will hit, and it generates heat spots and warps the stock manifold.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The big turbos you need to crank some decent boost through for them to make good numbers. There is another guy running RB25 with forged internals and 510hp, I dare say on 9psi its nowhere near its "efficiency range".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would always stick to the big jap brands - Zoom or HPI did a review of a range of A/M turbos a while ago, and it was proven that the JAP brands kick asre over the 'copy' series that you can get.

Makes sense to get something that has been specifically developed for your application, you can get some real bargains second hand. Try http://www.tuneagent.com/index.aspx and http://www.upimports.com.au/UPI_Parts/ as for starters.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hey GTSboy thanks for the quick reply. im on stock ECU  Surprisngly enough i unplug everything and replug everything, readings are still off but the car drove...ok haha So far this is what i have done. - Replaced ECU (still 1.5v) - Replaced Boost sensor (still 1.5v) Now the next thing i tried is to unplug the TPS and only plug in the Boost sensor to see if it reads 5v. No it still only read 1.5v.  Its a new boost sensor and i know i have 5v if i dont plug the sensor back in, so that means the power wire is good. So now im thinking that it might be a bad ground on the boost sensor plug.  on the FSM says the ground to the boost sensor is  a sensor ground, can i add a ground wire from the boost sensor ground wire to the the engine itself to ground it? or chassis?
    • OK, so, assuming that there is nothing wrong with either the original or new boost sensor, then it would seem that there might be something wrong in the loom wiring to that sensor. This is troublesome, because if that were true, then you might expect the problem to persist when the sensor was unplugged. But seeing as the voltage comes good when it is unplugged, it would suggest that the fault might (and I stress might) be right at the loom plug. Either that, or the fault might be at the ECU, on the line in from the boost sensor. When you unplug the boost sensor, that input at the ECU is isolated from the TPS sensor and can't affect it. This would be semi-bad, as an ECU problem is never welcome, but at least you'd know where the problem is and it might be fixable, or at least replaceable. Do you have Nistune, or any other way of looking at ECU data? I'd want to drive the car around with the boost sensor unplugged and see the TPS working properly, then not working properly with the sensor plugged back in. You're not trying to run more than ~18 psi either? Right? Because even with Nistune that can be difficult with the boost sensor connected. Just checking, in case it might have some bearing on the issue. It shouldn't cause the voltage situation you're seeing though.
    • Need something reliable, like a Mazda (non-rotary), or a Honda, or a .......... Commodore 🤣, the only issue with my cars is me 🫤
    • Then sell it and buy a BMW! I can totally relate to this (except the money part! ). I think for me I need to remind myself that I do enjoy the process and to stop being so damn impatient and eager to get it done. That just leads to frustration and broken stuff.  Built not bought. Wait.  Fixed, not fought? No ... Definitely fighting things. Definitely not fixed, I give up. Cars are pain.  
×
×
  • Create New...