Jump to content
SAU Community

Cefiro quirks


someonestolecc
 Share

Recommended Posts

Gday,

Just wondering if anyone had solved these cefiro quirks. Or if anyone wanted to add any to see if we can solve them?

1. Rear windows

Why the hell are these permanently child locked? It looks pimped when the windows only go down half way but is this due to the side intrusion bars or is this how cefiros were made?

Is there anyway to make them go all the way down (some of my rear seat passengers whinge too much).

2. Auto door-lock

My car decides to lock all doors (except for the driver door) when the car starts or starts moving around 15-20kmh (it randomly chooses).

Is there a way to get rid of this and still keep the central locking button operative? (i'd still like to hit the switch to lock/unlock all doors but i'd like to stop the auto-lock).

Thanks.

Anyone else got any?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

they arent really quicks so much as they are features. Most 4 door cars only wound the windows down that far. I remember my dads commonwhore of that era doing the same thing... our mitsi. The door lock thing is a safety feature which is the same as the soarer has... as soon as u get up past 20ks it locks the doors... all tho it should lock them all. Mercedes bought this in as an anti hijack feature incase people got car jacked cause people always forgot to lock their doors when they got in the car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One man's feature is another man's quirks.

I find them annoying. I have visions of me being stuck after rolling my car (heaven forbid) in a deathtrap fireball and being locked in... Atleast I'd be safe in the knowledge that people couldn't hi-jack (or rescue) me while I was locked in.

And what's the deal .. how is locking all but the driver door stop hi-jacking? I don't see how a hi-jacker would go to try to jack me through the rear door :(

Still.. Anyone know how to get rid of it?

Slain I think it's been mentioned in a previous thread somewhere in this section how to rip the box out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A post was done about the 105km ping and how to stop it unsure where it was again.

and from memory a wire needs to be cut (again unsure where) and the auto locking will stop

no good for trying to do circle work with the door open foot on the ground and my mate jumping in the passange side while it keeps locking now is it :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hah adrnln.

CEF11E mentioned to me you can unplug the central locking thing and it will stop it. Obviously then you lose the functionality of the central locking button - which I'd like to retain.

One thing I have thought of is cutting that wire, then re-wiring the same wire from the actual drivers door lock (which is wired to central locK) and hook it up to the button. This way when you press the button it's the same as locking the drivers door (which will central locK/open).

I would prefer not to re-wire stuff so if I can just zap the module that detects the speed or disable that wire (so the central locking module always thinks it's at 0km or the car is off) that would be ideal.

The windows don't bother me as much as the door lock. Only because I have freaked out passengers and I get the shits with people trying to open doors while I'm pressing the button to unlock them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The drivers doors doesnt lock automatically with the others because it doesnt have a motor in it .....found this out when i got the immobiliser and hooked up to the central locking. All my doors lock now !:) little annoying.

The chiming noise can easily be removed ...its one of two black boxes under tha dash ..... just unplug it....oneis for the ligfhts and the other is for the doors.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

see none of these happen in my car... no speedo noise... no auto locking... :)

only thing mine does the same is the windows which as u said isnt really an issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The drivers doors doesnt lock automatically with the others because it doesnt have a motor in it .....found this out when i got the immobiliser and hooked up to the central locking.  All my doors lock now !:( little annoying.  

The chiming noise can easily be removed ...its one of two black boxes under tha dash ..... just unplug it....oneis for the ligfhts and the other is for the doors.

So what did you have to do to make all doors lock with your alarm? Put in a motor?

see none of these happen in my car... no speedo noise... no auto locking... :D

only thing mine does the same is the windows which as u said isnt really an issue.

Just out of interest when you hit your central locking button in your door do all of the doors open and close?

IF SO - Any chance you can have a look at your door consoles to see if there are any obvious wires unplugged? :)

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the reason the rear windows don't go down all the way is because the cefiro has 4 doors, ie: a rear wheel well interrupting halfway down the rear door, if it was to go all the way down it would cut into your tires =P

i don't have the issue with the auto-lock and mine was a grandpa spec, to tell truth i don't really have any quirks!

except i do really hate the reverse BEEEEEEEP BEEEEEEEEEP BEEEEEEEP BEEEEEEP

noise, what the sh*t is the point of that? if it's on the outside of the car i can understand cos it lets kids know your reversing but inside the car? WHY!?!?!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the reason that the windows only go down half way is because the wheel arch which takes up some of the rear door space actually prevents the window from going down completely.

to make the window go down completely, you need to create a split window, one that cuts out the rear bit of the window (does that make sense?), so that the back bit of the window does not actually meet the wheel arch bit.

i hope you can understand that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So what did you have to do to make all doors lock with your alarm? Put in a motor?

Just out of interest when you hit your central locking button in your door do all of the doors open and close?

IF SO - Any chance you can have a look at your door consoles to see if there are any obvious wires unplugged? :D

:)

yeah central locking still works from the inside... but from the drivers side key it only operates my door.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i put in a central locking alarm so we had to wire a motor to the driver door, all the others had factory ones, so now when I go over 15km/h ALL the doors including the driver doors lock.

My chime's still on as my dad actually likes that feature, but its a real PITA when you have to drive from melb to syd at 110km/h with that blasted thing on... luckily i packed some earplugs.

The windows are a standard feature... like all cars fromt hat time, including eunos cosmo's and laurels.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

danny from autotrust did it for me while I helped (mostly watched) took him about 5 mins to wire the extra motor and the locking mechanism in. Using a standard solenoid available over the counter. You'll have to get the exact details off him, but yeah all up it wasn't too hard because my car already had the central locking stuff wired up.

All we did was make the alarm trigger the central lock AS WELL as the speed safety mechanism. And then instead of locking all the passenger doors, made it lock all 4 doors by using the extra motor.

There is a way of disabling the speed lock, danny showed me how, but I can't remember exactly, it was as simple as terminating one of the wires going into the central lock trigger.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yea i had another motor put into the drivers door to make it lock .......its weird how they didnt come with it ........i thought mine had been taken out or something .......like a few other things ...but seeing most other people have the same thing ...looks like it was stock...

.....next time im at the auto electrics place might ask him to have a look an see it i can have the auto door lock feature removed ...cause it pees me off ..and most of my friends hehe ....

once they get to my car they cannot leave! heheh

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Opened up the cluster to inspect the gauge itself for signs of damage and it looks good. Got curious since that needle doesn't go back to a "neutral" position by itself (it stays in the same position when ignition is off. so I manually moved it to 1/2. Connected it back, turned on the ignition and the needle started moving up! Not sure what's up with that but before that the needle was way down below empty like fully south west. There's always a chance that the needle moved slightly the first time I tried and I didn't notice because of how slowly it moves and how far it was from the markings. I don't know if the current needle position is accurate so I'll fill it up and see where that brings it. I guess I'll try to adjust it manually if it doesn't get to F. Looks like the needle position is relative and not absolute? Thanks all for your help and patience!
    • You're confusing two different responders and more than one issue. The stock Neo ECU boost sensor is used by the ECU for protection purposes. It is essentially only an overboost sensor. It is not used for determining engine load for fuelling or ignition purposes. That task falls solely to the AFM. Any aftermarket ECU that either has an onboard MAP sensor or a plug in one, will use the MAP sensor as the primary load sensor. Or I should perhaps say "can", rather than "will", because some of them have the option of using other primary load sensors. That MAP sensor is not for the same function as the stock Neo boost sensor. The reason I recommended against a plug and play ECU is that they are intended to run a particular engine and usually in the car that the particular engine came in. So, if you have a transplanted engine in a different car, with some parts of the original missing (such as the boost sensor, for example) and therefore likely non-standardness of the loom and its insertion into the car's loom, then it is very likely that you will run into the same problems with needing to fix up wiring to make it work that you would with the stock ECU. And, if doing so for the stock ECU is enough of an obstacle that you start considering a standalone plugin as a solution, it should become clear that the plugin is quite possibly not the solution you'd hope it to be. It would just lead to more of the same type of problem solving work to get it going. In the above paragraph and in my earlier post, the lack of the boost sensor is not critical. It was just used as an example of something that we knew you did not have right, such that the stock ECU would not work. I took that as an indicator of a reasonable probability that there were other related problems hiding there.
    • I can think of two places in my city of <1.5million population that specialise in automotive instrument repairs.Unless you're out in the wilds of Quebec, you have 3 major Canadian and 3 major US cities within the same distance as the single nearest city to mine. Surely there is somewhere you could send it.
    • I never cared for twins but whenever these conversations came up, I always presumed the higher number represented a larger turbo. Learn something new everyday. 
    • Interesting, I've never seen a failure like that before but with the age of these cars and the general questionable-ness of all kinds of parts these days you can't rule anything out I suppose. Boost leak testing the boost control system would've revealed this though.
×
×
  • Create New...