Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, had my car dynoed yesterday and it pulled 149rwkw's on 11PSI on a very hot 37 degree day with only a full mandrel bent exhaust and a hot air pod as he called it. The one thing thats letting me down and he said its the same with all RB20's at this point is my fuel pump, he said its running fairly lean and i could do some damage if not replaced soon so my question is guys with RB20's is:

what aftermarket fuel pump are you using and whats the best value for money?

Can any of the sponsors get any cheap, i'm not looking for something too outrageous cause i'm only chasing a max of 220 rwkw's!

cheers guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60950-fuel-pump-for-rb20/
Share on other sites

is the bosch 040 a straight intank replacement?

I am also insterested in getting a new fuel pump for my R32 :)

Its a straight intank replacment in the sense that you can mound it on the stock cradle with hose clamps, you just need a banjo fitting and dome nut for the top, and some proper in tank hose.

i have heard a LOT of horror stories from people using Walbro pumps, and only 1 or 2 cases of them actually holding up, and more success stories with Bosch pumps...

http://www.importbitz.com.au/enginenew.htm

So this one wouldn't be any good then?

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...