Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a R32 with the Rb20 i have changed thermostat water pump all that etc in the major serive done 10 kms ago! that was done in winter, also done is engine rebuild so 2.2 ltr forged polished head etc.. now come these last few days been hot the water temp gauge is getting to 100 deg after a long drive in traffic. also once i got home i little bit of coolant came out of the overflow bottle once turned off..... usually on a cold night is at 80 deg.... just wonder is this normal?????

the temp guage on dash doesnt apper to move only the aftermarket one???

so could it be after the modification that its like this?

would the FMIC block cool air getting in??

or faulty temp gauge????

any ideas appreciated thanks!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60981-r32-possibly-overheating/
Share on other sites

Could be intercooler, ie disturbed airflow to radiator. Could be blocked radiator, has it been flushed...has it been properly bled of air?????????

Im not having cooling probs...but have been considering for some time one of these for when im at the track....Has anyone installed a Nismo thermostat, quote...

Nismo Racing Thermostats open at 62 C(169 F), where stock OEM thermostats open at 76.5 C(195 F). These thermostats are very helpful for racing applications, or very hot climate areas.

i have a R32 with the Rb20 i have changed thermostat water pump all that etc in the major serive done 10 kms ago! that was done in winter, also done is engine rebuild so 2.2 ltr forged polished head etc.. now come these last few days been hot the water temp gauge is getting to 100 deg after a long drive in traffic. also once i got home i little bit of coolant came out of the overflow bottle once turned off..... usually on a cold night is at 80 deg.... just wonder is this normal?????

the temp guage on dash doesnt apper to move only the aftermarket one???

so could it be after the modification that its like this?

would the FMIC block cool air getting in??

or faulty temp gauge????

any ideas appreciated thanks!!!

Dude, thats quite normal - dont stress. Long drive in 'traffic' on hot days, airflow is limited so ofcourse the temperature is going to rise. If you have an FMIC that can dramatically effect the operating temperature of the car, especially when its stopped and no air being force fed into the front of the car.

Mine will always get up to 100-102 deg on a hot day in traffic. I would seriously start stressing if the temperature got up to 120deg. When it reaches 100deg, just make sure you dont start thrashing it, when you get moving and constant airflow is going through, you will see the temperature drop. If you get worried about your temperature when it reaches 100deg in traffic, just put the heater on full and the temperature will drop a few degrees... or if you have aircon, wack that on.

sorry to hijack though i am having similar problems and didnt want to start a new thread

Ok i have a R32 gts4 i have notice the last few days that my temp on the stock gauge is sitting almost at 2/3 whilst driving normally on the highway if driving hard will move to 3/4 also my front thermo fan never comes on i saw on another thread that there is supposed to be a sensor in the bottom of the radiator though all i could find was a bolt blocking a hole where it roughly should be. i recently had my 100k service all was good shortly after i had a coolant hose split and had to replace the coolant though am still having the problem any help would be appreciated

regards

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...