Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

"Just Letting You Ppl Know, That For Now Id Be Very Weary Of Buying Anything At The Moment Off This Person. On Wed Of Last Week I Payed Him 250 Dollars For Some Parts And Was Going To Give Him The Other 100 Once The Goods Were Delivered. Was Expecting Goods To Be In At My Door On Friday And Since I Told Him That The Money Was In, He Hasnt Answered My Calls, Has Not Called Me When He Said He Would, Will Not Reply To Emails, Pm's Or Reply On Msn. Just A Word Of Caution."

Agree With BABS on this just spend 5 weeks for a turbo which was meant to take 3 days.Still dont have a turbo only got my money back 2 weeks late by constant hassling.

"hahahah u guys dont even care bout wat the above guy said......."

AGREED TOTALLY LISTEN TO PEOPLE WHEN THEY SAY THEY ARE GETTING RIPPED OFF.

"What did you buy babs? **** 250 is a low amount to steal off somebody...especially since I was about to ask him for goods worth over 10k...aiya...the net is so confusing at times"

Buddy he will try to rip off any amount.

You are on drugs if you give him 10k.

JUST A WORD OF WARNING FOR EVERYONE OUT THERE.

Always be weary when dealing with people over the Net. There are many dodgy fux0rs out there....

Lucky for me I live in Vic, so if/when I am looking for R34 parts I can simply go there in person :rofl:

Just in response to the negativity I initially found on this forum, I went to this guy's warehouse yesterday and he was very helpful and I bought off him an R32 GTR front bar. I wonder why others have had problems? Seems like a genuinely nice guy and I may even be getting my cars complianced there. Thanks all.

Closed.

Enough is enough.

GDTNO: Your conduct as a trader on this forum leaves a lot to be desired. Not only have you racked up multiple complaints, but you also fail to follow the rules of posting in this section.

'

Its clear that those whom you have shafted are taking these matters further, I hope for your sake you clear this issues up before you land yourself in hot water.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
×
×
  • Create New...