Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

[Sydneykid]

Isn't it the other way around?  If all settings are at 0 the solenoid will stay closed, therefore the wastegate will see zero boost, therefore boost will hit maximum?

I would have thought all settings would need to be at 100%.......

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Correct, even I have dumb days occasionally

cheers

[JD_R33]

Just a simple question about wiring the solenoid to the IEBC - does the IEBC ground the wire connected to the solenoid, in the same way as the ECU normally does to open it?  Or does the solenoid need to be rewired so the IEBC operates it via a positive signal, rather than an earth?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Ok, dumb question on my part. I just found the book, and the specifications clearly say "Output signal.....switch to ground to drive solenoid connected to 12V supply".

[chrissso]

Ok, dumb question on my part.  I just found the book, and the specifications clearly say "Output signal.....switch to ground to drive solenoid connected to 12V supply".

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yeah. That's right... all you need to do iin a skyline is connect tto the wire from the ECU to the solenoid. The solenoid has an ignition switched power supplied to it on its other wire and the IEBC just earths the solenoid to open it...

I found this out the hard way. This thread was really handy when I was confused...

[[SPESHAL]]

How hard is the DFA to tune, i.e. can any tuner who can tune a full ECU / AFC learn it easily?

[Sydneykid]

How hard is the DFA to tune, i.e. can any tuner who can tune a full ECU / AFC learn it easily?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Simple, any fool (even me) can tune using thge DFA. An exeprienced tuner would do it in his sleep. If he hasn't seen a DFA before (unlikely as there are plenty around) explain to him how it works, the load points etc. That will save him a few minutes (and you some money) working out what the buttons do.

cheers

[[SPESHAL]]

Thanks mate, appreciate it.

[ZILLAR5]

This is the 10 minute no cost boost to 0.5 bar rerouting of the vacuum hoses.  Disconnect the two vaccum hoses from the solenoid.  Then connect the boost feed (from the cross over pipe on the left of the picture) to a the standard T piece. Connect one side of the T piece  directly to the wastegate actuator (on the right of the picture).  The remaing connection on the T piece goes back into the inlet via the BOV return pipe (on the standard fitting).  Make sure to put the the standard brass restrictor in that vacuum hose to bypass the desired amount back into the turbo inlet. The standard bypass hole of 1.25 mm bypasses enough air flow for 0.5 bar.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

wow what a read.

i've got a Q.

Is the resistrictor meant to stay where it is (from the intercooler) or go in another vacumm hose ?

cheers

[asap]

Wow Wut a post , sore eyes now! Anyway if got the IEBC bult and ready to go on the car! my questions are

1: do i hook up the input signal to one of the wires going into the top of my injectors then run the wire through the firewall into the IEBC or do i find the wire on the ecu ?

2: Has anyone hooked up the IEBC to a CA18det? if so how the Sh@t do i find the injector wire off the ECU?

any help would be grea , thanks

[ellie]

High guys, i actually bought the IEBC and controller quite a ways back but due to lack of time it's been sitting in the cupboard. now i'm ready to build i have a drama i hope some of you can shed light on: how do you keep your soldering iron tip clean to take solder properly because mine keeps (oxydising?) and blackened causing the solder to bead instead of taking to the tip. I have an adjustable temp. iron and have tried varying temps around the 300D.C mark and have also tried a tip refresher product which works great on every part of the iron except the very tip.

So any advice would be most appreciated.Cheers in advance

[NewKleer]

time to buy a new tip. try get the brass wool type cleaner (like steel wool, but brass, or brass coloured) rather than wet sponge.

if u take the tip out and take it to jaycar see if they can match anything up.

[ellie]

Most appreciated Peter!

Will give it a burl.

[Sydneykid]

wow what a read.

i've got a Q.

Is the resistrictor meant to stay where it is (from the intercooler) or go in another vacumm hose ?

cheers

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The restrcitor goes in the vacuum hose off the T piece to the turbo inlet, it limits the amount of bleed off from the wastegate actuator.

cheers

[ZILLAR5]

The restrcitor goes in the vacuum hose off the T piece to the turbo inlet, it limits the amount of bleed off from the wastegate actuator.

cheers

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks SK ! i'l give it a go.

[simboo]

Hey guys,

Since I finally got off my ass and plumbed my Jaycar boost controller in today, I thought I would post up a few questions I have.

First. I've got an old bluebird with a CA18DET in it, the solenoid is a normally closed type which I used off the fuel system in an S13 sivlia. As it stands, the plumbing only goes plenum > solenoid > wastegate - I am not running a bleed vent back into the intake.

I 've tested the circuit out by setting like 2/3/4 injector loads to solenoid fully closed, and 5/6/7 to fully open, then I've revved the car in the driveway to test the solenoid is working by making sure that you can blow through it when you rev the engine a little. it seems to be workign perfectly.

The problem. I've set the solenoid to stay closed until around injector duty of approx 20+ then I first had it randomly opening up between 40 and 75% from injector loads 20 - 64. This was just to test out what the boost is like. What I noticed was that the boost only spiked once up to around 10psi, the rest of the time it was pretty much at the stock 8psi actuator level of boost. I had a few weird things happen in this time though. A few missfires at higher RPM - would this be a boost cut? it was a fair feeling surge in power.

I then set load points 20 - 40 to 35% open from above 20 load on the injector, and its pretty much a constant 8psi which is what stock actuator is at anyway! Does something not seem right that I need to use such a low % open on the solenoid? Or should I set it lower and try it out. I know for a fact that if its at fully closed I will get a large boost spike as I tested this out momentarily and as soon as the boost gauge went to 12psi I let the accelerator off.

Do I just need a really low % opening on the solenoid? Just weary as dont want to damage anything

EDIT: As I am only aiming to run about 12psi

Cheers.

Edited January 13, 2006 by simboo

[Techo]

Hey SK,

I am now the proud owner of a S2 Stagea, & i don't have the boost feed coming from the cooler pipe, it comes form the turbo outlet, & i'm not exactly sure where the restrictor is or if there is even one fitted? I disconnected the vac pipe to the BOV from the solenoid & stuck it on the tee. i got no idea how much boost it made, but DAMN did it go. Here's a pick of the standard setup with the locations of the pipes, how do i re-route them for about 10psi?

[Sydneykid]

Hey guys,

Since I finally got off my ass and plumbed my Jaycar boost controller in today, I thought I would post up a few questions I have.

First. I've got an old bluebird with a CA18DET in it, the solenoid is a normally closed type which I used off the fuel system in an S13 sivlia. As it stands, the plumbing only goes plenum > solenoid > wastegate - I am not running a bleed vent back into the intake. ..................

It won't work you MUST have a vent, otherwise there is nowhere for the trapped boost (pressure) to escape. So the wastegate stays open until the solenoid opens.

Put a vent in and try it. Your problems should have dissappeared.

cheers

Edited January 16, 2006 by Sydneykid

[Sydneykid]

Hey SK,

I am now the proud owner of a S2 Stagea, & i don't have the boost feed coming from the cooler pipe, it comes form the turbo outlet, & i'm not exactly sure where the restrictor is or if there is even one fitted? I disconnected the vac pipe to the BOV  from the solenoid & stuck it on the tee. i got no idea how much boost it made, but DAMN did it go. Here's a pick of the standard setup with the locations of the pipes, how do i re-route them for about 10psi?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The vacuum hoses may be in different positions, but they do EXACTLY the same things. The restrictor is simply there to dampen the boost/vacuum hits on the wastegate actuator.

You have a vacuum hose marked "from solenoid to BOV pipe" that is the return to air inlet, Nissan have saved a few cents and eliminated one extra fitting on the inlet pipework.

The restrictor should be in the hose from the turbo outlet to the T piece. I can't see from the pictures but it should be marked with a stripe (yellow or red) around the vacuum hose to show where the restrictor is located. Maybe check the vacuum hose from the T piece to the wastegate actuator. Nissan may have put it in there, it would have pretty much the same dampening effect.

cheers

[3intheBack]

Hello Techo

I also have an S2 and like you probably got confused with the description on hose routing in this thread as you wont find any hose with stripes of any colour on them.

If you see red on a hose, that is probably dried blood, spilt from trying to get those hoses off!

The T piece that is shaped like an 'F' has (as far as I can blow) nothing in it, And a good squeeze of all the pipes did not reveal any lumps that may be hiding a restrictor.

**Warning** "Danger Will Robinson!" When you swapped the hoses off the soleniod you will find that your turbo was free boosting (if that is the right term) and you were probably pushing 15 - 20 psi from 3500 rpm onwards ( as I found out on my first run). Don't do any experimentation until you get a boost gauge. Run the gauge from the blanked off nipple towards the rear of the plenum.

I am not sure how the soleniods works as my test run with a boost gauge (before any mods) showed that I could only get 5 psi across the rev range. Maybe that black and white wiring mod in the other thread will work.

To get the desired 10psi I plumbed in an aftermarket boost controller simply by pulling those two hoses off the solenoid and straight into the BC. Start with the tap turned right down and then increase 1 - 2 turns at a time.

Better still, get the jaycar set up. it costs about the same as a BC and works better.

P.S. Get a mate to watch the boost gauge when testing - it can become quite mesmerising watching that little needle when you should be watching for the next corner.

[Techo]

Thanks 3intheback,

it's all swapped back & i only took it for a little run with the hoses swapped, so hopefully no damage. (crosses fingers) I have done the solenoid wiring mod & it works quite well.

Thanks again,

Jeff

[illusiVe]

hey, i just tried to power on my DFC and well.. nothing on the hand controller at all... backlight doesnt even come on.. i tried hooking it straight up to my battery.. no change... i've checked all soldering points.. any ideas?