Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

Strut Braces Group Buy #3

My supplier in brisbane has over 2000 strut braces in stock. Here is a list of his prices:

buy 1 for $70

buy 5 for $65 each

buy 10 for $60 each

buy 15 ir more for $55 each

Postage is $13 for 1 and $15 for 2.

Here is the list of strut braces I can get

skyline

R33 front strut brace

R32 (incl GTR) front and rear strut brace

Silvia

s13 front and rear strut brace

ca18 - requires a little mod

sr20

Supra

Fits JZ80 and 70 series front strut brace

Soarar

Fits on soarer twin turbo and non turbo front strut brace

Over the next few days/week I will see how many people are interested and let you all know what the cost will be. If everthing goes good I will then need the money from the buyers and I will get the parts and send them out to you guys. Delivery takes between 3-5 days

End date 4/2/05

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61690-strut-brace-group-buy/
Share on other sites

Just like to say i just picked up my strut brace tonight.....

Very good quality for the price....

Very very happy and suggest anyone who does not have one and wants one... then this is your man....

hi,

i dont mean to speak out of turn here, but i have one of these braces - well it looks physically exactly the same - and while i just cannot fault the manufacturing, i have to say that i'm not that impressed with the design ...

once it is installed, you cannot adjust it to make it slightly tighter, you basically make it the right size to fit the shocks on either side, and place it over the bolts, or squeeze it over the bolts, replace the nuts, tighten them up, and that it ... no more adjustment ...

just not a great desigm imho

just my 2c

hi,

i dont mean to speak out of turn here, but i have one of these braces - well it looks physically exactly the same - and while i just cannot fault the manufacturing, i have to say that i'm not that impressed with the design ...

once it is installed, you cannot adjust it to make it slightly tighter, you basically make it the right size to fit the shocks on either side, and place it over the bolts, or squeeze it over the bolts, replace the nuts, tighten them up, and that it ... no more adjustment ...

just not a great desigm imho

just my 2c

what are you talking about??? use the alan key bolts to tighten the brace. :P

ahh, this one must be different then ... couldnt see ANY method of tighening the one i have ... will pull it all apart and replace the existing bolts with allen heads ...

sorry if i put anyone off, i was in the wrong ...

cheers

what are you talking about??? use the alan key bolts to tighten the brace. :P

Hiroshima Screamer : My supplier has heaps left. But I wait till I have enough people to make the group buy, then I go and get a batch. If you want, the next batch I get I will get r32 front for you?

ahh, this one must be different then ... couldnt see ANY method of tighening the one i have ... will pull it all apart and replace the existing bolts with allen heads ...

sorry if i put anyone off, i was in the wrong ...

cheers

You don't need to buy allen key bolts. Just where the actual brace meets the bracket you will need to tighten those bolts and that will tighten the brace. Easy :D

1 R33 left without group buy. For anything else it will be put on the list to be order from the supplier. Takes 1 hr to get the parts.

Just a question, in the picture with the 33, does the brace get into the way when trying to change the spark plugs?

The big silver pipe that goes into the intake manifold, can it still be turned upwards to access spark plugs or is the brace in the way.

Thanks.

gtrGhosTDoGG11: I haven't taken the cover off yet to see if it gets in the way. But I reckon I would have to take it off to get to them. Small price to pay though for better handling.

MarkE: Juls bought an r32 off me for R31 was going to make a small mod to fit it. Dont know the results though. Maybe you can ask.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...