Jump to content
SAU Community

My baby's playing up.


burkey22
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hello all.

Tonight I went to take my Stag for a good run as I'm about to go away for a month.

When I put my foot down though things went pear shaped. It started what felt to me like it was missing a bit. The power wasn't smooth at all. And the exhaust was spluttering like it does when it changes gears if I'm fanging it.

I hope someone can understand what I'm talking about and tell me it's nothing major. I haven't checked anything yet as it's dark outside. Not real sure where to look either.

Sorry about the vagueness of ther message. Any help or info would be awesome.

Thanks guys.

Zane.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Similar experience......ours started playing up a bit after the long run (400 k's straight). It would miss occasionally under load and drop a cylinder at idle sometimes. As usual, first guess would be plugs. It was my undertanding that it had new plugs put in during the compliance process, but I figured I might as well check them anyway.

The plugs sure looked new but they were Autolites, APP 3924-11's. Now I have never had much luck with Autolites, and 1.1 mm is way too big a gap. So in went a set of the usual NGK BCPR6ES's gapped to 0.8 mm. Bingo no miss, runs perfectly and I am sure makes more power.

I don't know whether anyone else has checked their plugs since compliance, but it might be worthwhile as both burkey22 and I have had similar problems.

:P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Same problem first week for me - first thing I did was get them changed and gapped (but to 0.9mm)... and the weird thing was - they pulled out a really shocking discouloured set of NGK iridiums! So just had some normal NGKs put in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I checked mine they were the factory ones (only had 57k). I didn't bother waiting for it to play up. I scored a set of Iridiums from a mate that used them for about 2 months for nothing ;) . Already gapped to .8mm in the right heat range too, and chucked them straight in :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had the spark plugs replaced - the originals were still in the car. Had injectors cleaned, transmission and diff oil replaced...

Car still misses and does strange things with the g box swapping gears while cruising and not changing down when cornering...

Apparently no cracks in the coils. Been told it might be air flow meter or fuel flow sensor thing - as the car does not exhibit the problems consistently, the auto electrician/mechanic couldn't find any faults, so have to wait until the car misbehaves consistently ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds a bit strange.  Have you run the auto box diags ??

Yes it is strange (i.e., damn annoying), and no, I haven't tried the box diagnostics - now I know I read that somewhere here on how to do that, so I guess I better use the search feature and find that post...

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just looked at the part number of plugs that were installed - NGK BKR5EIX-11 - now would these plugs have too large a gap and be too 'hot' for a standard stag engine with out mods apart from a panel filter?

Would the larger gap also make the car feel a little sluggish apart from the possibility of mis-firing? I am wondering whether the problems I am still experiencing with the odd running of my car is now also due to incorrect spark plugs... any comments?

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just looked at the part number of plugs that were installed - NGK BKR5EIX-11 - now would these plugs have too large a gap and be too 'hot' for a standard stag engine with out mods apart from a panel filter?

Would the larger gap also make the car feel a little sluggish apart from the possibility of mis-firing? I am wondering whether the problems I am still experiencing with the odd running of my car is now also due to incorrect spark plugs... any comments?

:P

The -11 = 1.1 mm and from my experience that's too big, particularly at more than standard boost. I used 0.8mm on the NGK BCPR6ES, actually they came as -8, but I still checked the gaps. I use BCPR7ES in the race car, but they are too cold for lots of traffic driving. Hence the 6's are the go.

My suggestion would be to gap them down to 0.8mm, the heat range shouldn't cause the missfiring.:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys - I rang the guy who put the plugs in but he is away for a few days - I want to find out whether he did set the gap to 0.8 or just whacked them in as is. Also want to find out why he chose BKR5EIX-11 plugs as opposed to something like BCPR6EIX.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Agreed with the rest. Also at least based on my own research, there are no readily available stock or close-to-stock RB20Neo maps that you could download and use as a base were you to buy a complete standalone ECU, and the regular 20DET maps don't really work well so you'd need to take it to a tuner if you have no experience. I installed an AEM V2 on my 20Neo+T and had lots of headaches until I got it to run and idle properly but I've yet to remap it fully. You have to start building up your timing and fuel maps entirely from the ground up; even the ones for a 25 didn't work at all.
    • Got some decent progress after work yesterday and also today. Got the ECU all wired and passenger side interior all back together. Kept the wiring up nice and high to avoid people standing on it. Got the surge tank relays rewired and tidied up the pump wiring and cut a hole to bring the cables through.  I found a spare USB cable I had lying around so I decided to cut it up and see if I could use it for my CAN 1 bus. Turned out one of the pins I needed was to the shield of the cable so i cut it up and desoldered it and resoldered to the correct pins.  Had the issue with the powersteering hose hitting the A/C compressor and fan shroud. I pulled the bracket off and modified it to remove the front mounting point which now clears it all. Will keep an eye on it to see if theres any signs of fouling once it's up and running.
    • That's some good input mate. Nice.
    • So today I went well outside my comfort zone (again) to replace my valve cover gasket.  I have had a big leak over the exhaust leading to a lot of smoke and smell every time I drove it. The leak was in the rear driver's corner.  The job wasn't hard as such, just a bit finicky and time consuming.  The old gasket was rock hard and broken right where the leak was.  The leaky corner had so much sitting oil in it.  The good news to my amateur eyes was no buildup or sludge under the cover. It all looked fairly nice in there.   I haven't started it yet. I ran out of light and body when putting the coils and injector loom back in. Probs only 30min left for the morning.  I was so nervous putting the cover back on, I must have lifted it 5 times to make sure the gasket was still seated properly. God it's going to be nice to be leak free and not make other traffic light queuers think my car is about to explode.
    • Gave the Mazda it's first wash, it will need some clay, a light compound, and polish polish to remove a few swirl marks, but that will be a job for when I have a full day to get my DA polisher action on
×
×
  • Create New...