Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There are a million and one threads on this issue, so I suggest (without wanting to preach) that you search.

There are a lot of reasons HICAS can be out of whack, the most common being low on powersteering fluid (in R32s), and fitting an after market steering wheel without a) an appropriate boss or B) lining up the HICAS prongs properly.

LW.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62104-hicas-light/#findComment-1172936
Share on other sites

I drove all through the dandenongs with a coupla mates' cars yesterday, no problems. On the way to work last night it came on around a long, constant, R.H. bend in the freeway. - I think it's coz of the small amount of slack that's developed in the steering, coz I had the wheel held nearly straight to turn the corner.

Series II R33 b.t.w.

P.s. - Has anyone actually grown to LIKE the creepy HICAS rear-steer when pushing-on through corners? It weirds-me-out bigtime.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62104-hicas-light/#findComment-1176441
Share on other sites

  • 5 years later...

The hicas light is referring to the four wheel steering most of the time. It's telling you it's not working properly but it's working fine. The light only comes on after driving on open straight roads for a period of time. The best solution is to have the rear wheel steering disabled with a lock bar( a simple piece of round bar put in place of the hydraulic ram that steers the rear wheels) The solution will prevent crabbing and makes the car more controllable while the car is drifting. The light will continue to come on after this but just ignore it. You have to remember these cars with hicas were built for tight streets in japan so when the car is not turning regularly it thinks something is wrong.

  • Nope 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62104-hicas-light/#findComment-5593006
Share on other sites

in my R33 NA i absolutely love the hicas. It is also far more noticiable on an NA because your throttle applications are far bigger which means the hicas turns more (hicas works on steering angle, throttle position and road speed).

on my R33 turbo i dont really notice it much (probably because it feels so obvious in the NA) but i still like the feel of it. Seems to drift just fine too but then again iv got very good suspension and very good rubber.

which is the comment i often give to people who blame the hicas on them losing their shit while doing a slide and looping it- sorry mate, it wasnt the hicas, it was a combination of your shitty tyres and noob driving technique while trying to be a hero.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62104-hicas-light/#findComment-5595200
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...