Jump to content
SAU Community

Front pipe size? Standard?

benl1981

By benl1981,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
Posted

Anybody know what size the standard front pipe is on a R33 RB25DET?

Is it 2.5" - 63mm??

Anybody had good results with just changing the front pipe to 2.75 or 3"?

Or is the dump pipe section still a fair restriction?

Some firms sell just the front pipe. I can get a cheap front pipe or get one from the turbo back from Batmbl on these forums,.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62276-front-pipe-size-standard/
Share on other sites
benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  benl1981 said:
Anybody know what size the standard front pipe is on a R33 RB25DET?

Is it 2.5" - 63mm??

Anybody had good results with just changing the front pipe to 2.75 or 3"?  

Or is the dump pipe section still a fair restriction?

Some firms sell just the front pipe.  I can get a cheap front pipe or get one from the turbo back from Batmbl on these forums,.

Thanks

bummp

benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Jun - point taken about the half job.

I really don't want any noticeable increase in noise, currently 3.5" cat back but fairly quiet. I was wondering whether just the front pipe maybe good trade off between power and sound..i..e will the full 3" dump/froont increase the noise level?

ix9 Grand Master

ix9

Posted
Posted

I've had a 3.5" Front pipe, 3.5" Cat-back (TRUST System)

And have recently put on a 3" split-style stainless dump pipe - and by god it certainly howls on boost now, quicker spool up, and an awesome sound - so yes, just the dump makes quite a bit more noise :P

32vspecII Mentor

32vspecII

Posted
Posted

i added that a combined 3in front/dump in mild steel and hiflow cat after running with just a japanese cat and the increase in noise wasnt that noticable . certainly nothing like adding the cat back vs the stock catback . on high throttle the midrange was a bit more growly but not heaps louder or droney

cameron Mentor

cameron

Posted
Posted

Its probrely cheaper to go the full 3" from turbo to cat - one piece. $380 for JustJap I think.

It's not work doing half the job, becuase you'll still have restriction their.

The air flow will go somthing like this:

Out of the engine through exhaust housing on turbo into big 3" dump then into small 2" - 2.5" or what ever size they are standard then back into 3" you get the idea. So its still got a restriction their and that little bit of pipe thats smaller than the rest does make a fair big difference performance wise. If you want to make you'r exhaust more quiet, Put another resonator on their.

Making any change to you'r exhaust - from standard to aftermarket, you will get a little more sound to you'r exhaust note, but nothing drastic.

:P

Jun

benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey Arkon - did you notice much power gain?? I've got a 4 door like yours :)

I'm thinking if I fit in and find it too noisy I might put on a standard cat back and sell my cat back...although I would have to source the standard cat back.

The dump/front alone would be more of a gain than the catback right? Is the standard cat back that restrictive?

turbo to cat - batmbl does them on these forums for 250...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX 路 Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan 路 Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan 路 Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan 路 Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan 路 Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
脳
脳
  • Create New...