Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering what would be the best way to set up a car for drifting? I'm guessing things such as adjustable coilovers and front/rear strut tower bars help but what else would be the best way to set up a car for drifting for a person who accepts nothing less than the best :wassup:

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62369-suspension-setup-drifting/
Share on other sites

Although i'm sure alot of people drift on a viscous LSD i'm told (since i've only ever used a mechanical) that the take up of the diff (ie when it's going from open to locked) is a little laggy, also the diff can heat up alot and render the viscous pack useless, so you'll have an open diff again until it cools down (so i'm told).

A good LSD is somthing like a 1.5 way (locks up easily under accelleration and half as easily under braking loads) or a 2 way (locks up just as easily under accel and braking). I dunno what a 3 way is...

There are a few other types of LSD but mechanical clutch pack type diffs are the go for drifting.

For drifting you need a 2 way, you want to start the drift without power on. So you need the diff "locked" under brakes (hand or foot). I strongly suggest adjustable stabiliser bars, you can't easily change the springs rates for more or less traction (front and rear). You need adjustability for the different conditions. Adj stabiliser bars are the easiest way to adjust the front and rear slip angles.:P

Hey gotboost, Ive been setting up my r33 for drift. I would have to agree with sydney kid about power, it would be better to learn with less than more. First thing i would be to get a 2way mechanical type lsd, i got a tomei type which is very user friendly, doesnt clunk everywhere. then a thick rear sway bar you will be able to feel a huge difference. Suspension would be my other top priority, dont just look at at jap brands koni's and other brands you can rebuild easily and are easily revalved to suit your needs. Subframe bushes are a plus if your rear end is still feeling unstable and a hicas lock kit. Strut braces if you ask me are a bit of a wank till you do all the rest first, the re4ally dont feel much different. So do things like front castor rods next and front sway bar. Tie rod ends or steering spacers are good to give you that little bit extra lock out of corners, could also get some adjustable upper control arms as skylines have double wishbone suspension so adjustable pillowball mount strut tops arent effective. How big is the wallet, roll cage, seam welded chassis, the list goes on

For drifting you need a 2 way, you want to start the drift without power on.  

i think sydkid means that ideally you want to start the drift by breaking traction through breaks/handbreak at the entry to a corner rather than breaking traction through boost at entry. this is where the 2way diff comes in as it helps do that through breaking.

B1Fanny so the diff is locked when under decelleration and locked under acceleration,giving wheelspin/traction loss,either way.

thats my understanding. eliminates that tail snap when u take your foot off the gass with the normal diff so you can continue the drift around the corner, get off the gas and down gear and continue on your merry way.

Does anyone know how good the original R32 Skyline LSD is?

Also does anyone know where you can buy adjustable swaybars for the R32?

Original LSD, forget it. Bite the bullet and get a 2 way - huge difference to predictablility and control when the back end is out.

Whiteline make adjustable sway bars.

LOCK THE HICAS - a must.

Get some castor happening, adjustable rods arent too expensive, or bushes if you are on a budget.

Good coilovers (Tein, Kei office, Tanabe, Silk Road, etc). Make sure you buy them with spring rates suited to drift for best results.

Drift button.

Pineapples and/or hardmount cradle bushes.

Good brake pads, front and rear.

You may need to replace some of the stock bushes if they are tired/worn.

Your car will handle like a weapon :D

If you are planning extended thrash sessions, consider a good oil cooler as well.

There are alot of other mods you can do, that will all help improve steering response, feedback and handling generally, be prepared to put a huge hole in the bank account if you want to do the works.

Other things that are worth the trouble, IMHO, is mission mount, strut braces, aftermarket camber and toe adjust, and rack ends.

There are a few things to consider in all, remember you dont need them all at once - personally I would start with diff and hicas lock then go from there :)

locked diffs are cheap but can stuff you up when drifting.. mid corner if you have to adjust your line the locked diff make its hard

my tip is adjustable castor (max) and about 6 deg of neg camber and some rspec front tyres) makes the change of direction very easy at high speed and thats what you want

2 way lsd will help

then practice

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...