Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

i got a Cusco R32 handling upgrade combo, The combo includes cusco upper arms and cusco castor rods, both in good condition but not visually, you will not even see it installed (picture below)

was $400 for both NOW $300 INCLUDING POSTAGE!! WOAAAAAH

R32package.gif

i can COD anywhere in australia :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62492-cusco-r32-handling-upgrade-combo/
Share on other sites

wat exactly is this kit going to do for the car? I understand that the adj. castor rods are good for drifting, but wats the difference btw the standard upper arms and these ones?

I need to change my setup and this looks good but i'm not totally sure what it will do to my handling.

cheers if you can hekp.

hey guys, sorry for the late reply

Phantom32, I know the castor rods let you dial in more castor but im not to sure what the upper arms do, i guess they are alot chunkier then stock so it could improve chassis rigidity, lol, could someone help me with this?

daler32, I just checked them out again and there in excellent conditon all bearings are in great condition and the castors have been checked and in good condition also :)

Roy, The bearings are in good condition in the upper arms and the pillowball in the castors is good too

Chef_32, Im not to sure if they are adjustable but from what i have been told they are, but please dont quote me on that. ;)

if anyone wants to come to inspect they are welcome and i can COD anywhere in aus

hey guys, sorry for the late reply

Phantom32, I know the castor rods let you dial in more castor but im not to sure what the upper arms do, i guess they are alot chunkier then stock so it could improve chassis rigidity, lol, could someone help me with this?

The Cusco upper arms are a fixed length arm set to increase your negative camber. Yes, that means they are NOT adjustable. They are sold in 1 or 1.5 mm shorter increments to bring in the neg camber. I've had a set of these on my car for about 4 years without any problems. Because they are bearing style instead of bush style they are a lot stronger than factory. Hope that helps. :rofl:

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
×
×
  • Create New...