Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

i got a Cusco R32 handling upgrade combo, The combo includes cusco upper arms and cusco castor rods, both in good condition but not visually, you will not even see it installed (picture below)

was $400 for both NOW $300 INCLUDING POSTAGE!! WOAAAAAH

R32package.gif

i can COD anywhere in australia :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62492-cusco-r32-handling-upgrade-combo/
Share on other sites

wat exactly is this kit going to do for the car? I understand that the adj. castor rods are good for drifting, but wats the difference btw the standard upper arms and these ones?

I need to change my setup and this looks good but i'm not totally sure what it will do to my handling.

cheers if you can hekp.

hey guys, sorry for the late reply

Phantom32, I know the castor rods let you dial in more castor but im not to sure what the upper arms do, i guess they are alot chunkier then stock so it could improve chassis rigidity, lol, could someone help me with this?

daler32, I just checked them out again and there in excellent conditon all bearings are in great condition and the castors have been checked and in good condition also :)

Roy, The bearings are in good condition in the upper arms and the pillowball in the castors is good too

Chef_32, Im not to sure if they are adjustable but from what i have been told they are, but please dont quote me on that. ;)

if anyone wants to come to inspect they are welcome and i can COD anywhere in aus

hey guys, sorry for the late reply

Phantom32, I know the castor rods let you dial in more castor but im not to sure what the upper arms do, i guess they are alot chunkier then stock so it could improve chassis rigidity, lol, could someone help me with this?

The Cusco upper arms are a fixed length arm set to increase your negative camber. Yes, that means they are NOT adjustable. They are sold in 1 or 1.5 mm shorter increments to bring in the neg camber. I've had a set of these on my car for about 4 years without any problems. Because they are bearing style instead of bush style they are a lot stronger than factory. Hope that helps. :rofl:

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...