Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

NF,

Yeah the thread I posted didn't really say anything definite, and a lot of crap was posted, but I just thought I'd post it to show dynos read a little differently around the world.

I also reckon the real power figures are in the quarter times. As long as the driving is consistent.

Cheers,

Michael

DYNO's ARE FOR TUNING!

There is no real point in comparing different dyno readings between cars on different dynos. Unless you are a bit bored.

If you are tuning your car , going back to the SAME dyno makes alot of sense.

The 1/4 mile is a sport and not a very strict indicator of power, there are even more variables than comparing dyno results. ie: if you don't get the right equipment to play the sport you may not do too well. Like playing golf with a hockey stick.

I guess asking for peoples dyno results with a similar car setup will give you a range, which if your car fits between can give you some peice of mind that nothing is terribly wrong.

What does doing a dyno run in a lower gear do to your figures? I assume the torque will read higher because there is more of a mechanical advantage, and the power will read lower because the engine is physically doing less work to get the extra torque.

Does anyone know roughly how much I should adjust the figures if the dyno run was done in 3rd instead of 4th? Assuming factory R33 GTS-t gearbox ratios (I don't know what the ratios are).

Originally posted by Duncan

I've just run today and I'm having trouble beleiving the results.

164rwkw from a R33 with 11psi, no other mods.

Seems way too high to me.  Perhaps its just blue cars make extra power.

Yeah right - blue cars !! he he

I reckon the extra Kilowatts came from the energy permiating from the two good lookin blokes in the back seat at the time of the run....:D:)

Seriously, with your sticky tyres and the extra weight in the back, I reckon there was less slip against the Dyno hence the better results. :cool::) (that sound like BS to me actually.)

Duncan , last time I ran there - I got 150rwrw with std boost and a cat back zorst - so a few extra PSI could make the 13rwkw diff, maybe ???

Originally posted by Duncan

I've just run today and I'm having trouble beleiving the results.

164rwkw from a R33 with 11psi, no other mods.

Seems way too high to me.  Perhaps its just blue cars make extra power.

It depends on how the dyno is callibrated and what gear the run was done in. What was your torque out of interest?

Hi Jim,

Done in 4th gear. Unfortunately, the graph only has Air/fuel and power on it. I'm sure they logged torque as well, but I don't have the figures.

I think Broken got the figures for all cars, he might be able to post them. While good traction would have helped (definately no wheelspin there!), I suspect its a friendly dyno....

I dyno'd my car yesterday also (with Broken and 25 other Skylines)

Specs:

'95 GTS-T

Cat Back 3" Exhaust

HKS Air Filter

FMIC

2 Stage boost controller

First time i've ever had it done (only had the car 9wks)

7psi = 169 rwkw

12psi = 192 rwkw

Not bad for a first run , I was extremely impressed.

All i need now is a CAI, Side windors Tinted, oil change and my driver side window fixed and i think i'll just throw fuel in her for the next 3-4mths while enjoying the ride.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
×
×
  • Create New...