Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I have a strange noise that's developed over the past coupla weeks and I dunno what it is.

It's like a whirring noise (sounds like a belt or a bearing) and it's coming from the front of the engine. I tried locating the source, but it's kinda a bit hard cos it's originating from the front where all the belts are. My best guess is it's coming from behind the timing belt cover. :P

The whirring noise only happens when I rev the engine. It does it while I'm stationary and in neutral. It gets louder the harder I rev the engine.

The timing belt has been replaced recently (about 3500km ago) and the idler and tensioner bearing has been replaced also (about 2500km ago).

I don't know what it could be but I'm fairly concerned, since the source of the noise seems to be from behind the timing belt cover. Luckily I don't drive my car too often these days (too busy) so it only gets driven 2 or 3 times a week. I'll be getting checked out ASAP, but the earliest I can do it is this Saturday coming up.

I thought I'd throw something here to see if anyone may know what's up...

Cheers

i have the same problem right now. Only after about 3000 rpm when driving, i dont notice it as much...

it comes from inside the cam cover, but it is hard to pinpoint! I took the cam cover off and still wasn't sure...

anyhow, it turns out it is the timing belt on WAAAAYYYY too tight!

Seeing as yours is new, you shouldn't worry too much, but get it done ASAP!!!

Take it to the mechanic that put it on and tell them to loosen it.

Mine has been on for 40,000 km, and nissan recomend that if it is a used belt, that you toss it once it has been overtightened.... So I told mine I wanted it replaced, I supplied him with a photocopy of the pages in the service manual that exp-lain how to change the belt (just to make him feel like a dick), and I demanded the old belt also be returned to me.... :P

Reduce the options. Start by droping off one fan belt at a time and listen for your noise. Power steer, drop off the belt. Alternator or water pump, drop the belt. Air con or belt tensioner, drop the air con belt.

Still got a noise, it's in the cam belt area so you can take the next step.

Of course don't run the bloody thing for hours without belts!!!

Regards.

one thing i have found when the belt is fitted you sometimes get a bit of coolant on them if the water pump got replace and this causes a strange noise when it dries out and the residue is left on the belt. it only takes the smallest amout and the noise takes a while to start. what you can do is take out one of the top cam belt cover bolts and spray a SMALL amount of sylicone lube in there and that will stop it if thats your problem

I am relieved to report that the problem is a faulty fan clutch. It turns out the whirring noise is the fan over-spinning, since the clutch won't fully disengage. :)

Luckily the fan is still in good condition, despite having noticeable fractures on the body of the fan. The blades themselves are fine, tho.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...