Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, I reckon this has probably been talked about before but:

I've got an acquaintance who reckons he is going to buy a 'cheap' EVO III that is not complied, has never been registered in Australia.

The seller is telling him to buy a sh1tbox Galant and swap the compliance plate over and then explain it all away as "I've just finished doing the Galant up" [a sure thing, never be caught the seller reckons]. I reckon the buyer will end up doing 6 months in Changi prison and no way is it going to work.

Does this sort of this happen often, it can't be legal, surely there are check sums in place to catch ppl like this out?????

I must stress it's not me - and those of you who know me would know this - I reckon it's a surefire way of doing time and loosing money.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63047-replating-cars/
Share on other sites

It's been rife with EVO's for years.. I think the actual majority are illegally imported..

I think once they are registered there isn't much they can do, but for years I don't think there has been a legit way of importing EVO's.. .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63047-replating-cars/#findComment-1187262
Share on other sites

I believe that in Victoria there is a (government endorsed) rebirthing scheme that allows you to replace a written off car with an "equivalent". As you might imagine, people find Lancer wrecks, import an Evo from Japan, then use the rebirthing system to get it registered.

What you are discribing sounds entirely dodgey. Good luck to him if he has an accident and the police find out about the car.

LW.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63047-replating-cars/#findComment-1187294
Share on other sites

Most the of imported Mitsubishi's the "Australian" chasis number is stamped on top of the RH strut tower and is done in Australia. the Japanese number is left in the firewall

I bought a written off 1990 model Galant GSR about 6-7 years ago and repaired it for my wife

Had to replace the rh and lh chasis rails and restamp the Australian VIN number back in the top of the new strut tower

To rebadge a imported jap car, all you need to do is pop rivit the Australian compliance tag onto the firewall and stamp the matching Australian VIN number in top of the strut tower and go get it registered.

The old number in the firewall remains and is not cross checked.

no welding or painting all up about 30 mins work

No wonder people do and make 10-15 grand for 30 mins work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63047-replating-cars/#findComment-1188935
Share on other sites

but darrin...thats the illegal way

Are you referring to just adding the compliance plate to a Jap import or repairing a Australian car?

If you mean the Jap car, then yes it is vey illegal and I am not suggesting to do it, but have heard of people that have.

Thats how alot of evo's become registered, not alot of people transplant the drive train into a Australian lancer, just too much work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63047-replating-cars/#findComment-1189121
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...