Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

any of you had worked an L20 or know anything about em? Looking at doing one up and I'm curious what sort of hp i can expect etc.

Thinking about stroking it with a z24 crank etc too, but that might be down the track a little.

the plan to start with is headwork, valves/springs, cam, extractors, zorst, twin webbers. if I can find some webbers at a reasonable price that is! haha

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63054-l20b-mods/
Share on other sites

hmmm, www.ozdat.com is definately the place for these questions...

personally I think you could spend your money on better engines these days, the l20 was great for its time but is very out of date now....eg a ca18det half cut would be under $1500....

The only question I can answer for sure is the z24 crank can be fitted but it does require some light machining to the block for clearance, as well as limiting the revs significantly.

From my research a pair of webbers and a lumpy cam is the most common place to start but that would still be 800+

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63054-l20b-mods/#findComment-1188353
Share on other sites

L18 head onto L20 block raises the comp ratio, combined with higher lift/duration cams & redrilled/reneedled twin Hitachi SU's from the SSS + extractors is a very cheap power up combo, hunt around wrecking yards for the parts.

If you want more from the L20 - you'll reach the point of diminishing returns, and Duncan's suggestion is spot on

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63054-l20b-mods/#findComment-1188761
Share on other sites

yeah thats the thing really, how far do i really want to go. But as long as it goes ok, and doesn't really cost a bundle, I think thats what i want. i have a DR that I'd much rather spend the money on really. A ca18 front cut would be good..but theres all the other costs like engineering and dicking around with it etc the bother me.

But under 1500 is mighty tempting. I'd love to build the l20 with huge compression and cam and whatnot though, just for fun :D Oh, and its the missus' car, and I don't want it faster than mine :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63054-l20b-mods/#findComment-1189780
Share on other sites

apparently the stroke is a fair bit longer, sorry I don't have the exact dimensions here. the 200b standard is good to 7200ish but the navara tops out at about 5500 :D

One other suggestion.....find someone who has already been through this and built a great l20....and then got pissed off and bought a turbo motor instead....nice and cheap to pick up the whole thing with a bit of luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63054-l20b-mods/#findComment-1190164
Share on other sites

L20B is a great sounding engine on full song with webers. Its a great old skool engine and such deserves this respect. I had one, but it went like crap. But you can make good horsepower out of these engines. Ive seen 200 rwkW with standard rods, actually standard everything with just forgies running like 30psi. But ask yourself: are you after horsepower reliably, or are you wanting to build a classic? The L20 is a piece of sh#$ compared to the CA or SR and would not even touch an FJ. These latter 2 can make 200rwKw reliably at 14 psi and not that expensive to build. Changing cranks, blah blah blah, what for, to geet beaten by a 1600 with a stock N/A CA18??? Not worth it and you'll be the one biting your fingers when you lose. However, if you are after that particular L20-with-weber sounds and wanting a classic, then go right ahead. Classics rock, but Im preformance biased.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63054-l20b-mods/#findComment-1190207
Share on other sites

Well this is the wifes car, she wants it to be a bit grumpy, actually she wants it really really angry, and i reckon it'd be a bit of fun. I like the L18 head idea that someone mentioned earlier, sounds like a nice easy way of getting some decent compression. In a bluebird it'd still be reasonably quick I'd reckon, and if some little punk beats me with a stock ca18, oh well. The skylines for sorting them out :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63054-l20b-mods/#findComment-1192602
Share on other sites

I have had a mate of mine stroke his l20 out to a 2.4l with extractors webbers, the thing was nuts, lots and lots or touque, rev range was still good, these motors are just about unbreakable, keep the oil and water up to them if they leak and they will go for ever.

I also had my dat 1600 with an l20 twin webbers and exaust they go really well, but one down fall of webbers is that you have to tune the prick all the time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63054-l20b-mods/#findComment-1192634
Share on other sites

well..I've scored a factory nissan head with all the porting and stuff done for an L20, big cam and some 42mm webers, so i guess that helps out a lot.

The guy I know that ran the stroker motor got 9k rpm out of it, and it was there a lot cause they were racing off road with it. I have access to a machined 2.4 crank and bored block if I want them too. He did say the rear main used to leak a little due to cracnk and lock flex at those revs..but you've gotta expect that I suppose :)

I looked into the closed chamber L18 heads, apparently they're the sss heads that everone wants, and therefor no one can get :) oh well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63054-l20b-mods/#findComment-1194147
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...