Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bushes sit between moving metal parts. They can help absorb shock as well as the prevention of wearing of metal parts. Different bushes have different hardness - usually stock ones are on the soft side to give driver comfort and realistically aren't designed for agressive driving. Upgrading to poly bushes or similar can make a noticeable difference to the firmness of handling and IMHO are a worthwhile upgrade.

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6318-bushes/#findComment-95219
Share on other sites

FYI

I just called a whiteline distrubutor here in vic, and I got some prices for polyeurathane bushed for an R33

Front control arm uppers: $145

Strut to chassis (front): $107 ($63 for standard)

Rear control arm upper: $??? (no price)

Rear sway bar mount to chassis: $14.44

these guys are in 28 Ovata drive, Tullumarine

ph: 9330 1166

I'm getting a squeek from the front in the mornings when the car is cold. I dont suppose any1 has had the same, and changed their bushes. Its just that I haven't looked at them yet, but i was sondering which of the 2 it is likely to be...

Zahos

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6318-bushes/#findComment-95386
Share on other sites

inark:

Pineapple rings are used for one of 3 different applications. They can be set up for drag (increased rear squat on launch), drift (opposite of drag) or general performance (in between). They also help reduce axle tramp.

Zahos:

Sorry I didn't mention this before, whiteline also do 'handling' kits - buy as a kit and save a few bucks - may be worth a look.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6318-bushes/#findComment-95395
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I have a '95 R33 GTS-T and it has after-market suspension, when i drive on some bumpy roads i get rattles (i think only from the rear), i always thought it was just the jack or something in the boot moving around but the previous owner said i need to get "bushes" coz its metal on metal and thats the sacrifice u make for having good suspension.

How do i know what set of bushes i need ? there are like 243 different products on www.whiteline.com.au

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6318-bushes/#findComment-102256
Share on other sites

also try superpro

http://www.superpro.com.au

they make the polyurethane bushes whiteline sell, or so the suspension guy told me. they are blue, not yellow, and cheaper, thats all the difference, same parts and quality.

Ive just done the castor bushes in my s13. much nicer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6318-bushes/#findComment-102374
Share on other sites

Benm,

Do you have coilovers? I have then and they will give you a rattling sound, that is because they don't necessarily use rubber between the spring and the top of the suspension, therefore when you go over a stiff bump the spring compresses and then rattles against the metal of the chassis.

If you dont have coilovers thenI don't have any suggestion.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6318-bushes/#findComment-102614
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...