Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The other day i started my car up to go for a spin and noticed that there is a noise that sounds very much like the clicking of the indicators but twice as fast coming from the steering column of my car.

It seems to be pretty intermittent at this time... sometimes clicking away like a mad man for a few seconds at a time other times it clicks incessantly for a few mins.

It doesnt seem to be triggering the the actual indicatore light (on the outside of the car) but i could have sworn that i once caught the left indicator dash light faintly fiicking on and off.

Twiddling the indicator stick (just indicating left or right) or turning the wheel sometimes fixes it up other times it just stops itself.

Has anyone else had this problem or know what it is or how to fix it? it doesnt appear to be causing any probs but its bloody annoying and i kinda prefer my car not to do weird and unexplained things.

Oh and before i forget, the only thing i did that was out of the ordinary before this happened was to drive home in the pouring rain the other day in the middle of wednesdays big a$$ storm. The indicator in my front left qtr panel is missing so a little water may have got in there but i would havye thought it would have dried out by now.

Cheers in advance.

my car makes sounds like its readin a hard drive or doin calculations from the tacho dash. it only seems to do it when my cars fuel level hits the 1/4 mark or lower and only notice it when im at idle and lasts for a minute or 2. have no idea what it is though.

Messiah,

I have the same problem. It has been this way for a year or two. It is something to do with the switch and/ or circuitry in the steering column. My suspicion is some sort of tracking or arcing do do with a wiper that is moved between contacts.

Laziness and a she'll be right attitude means that it hasn't bothered me quite enough to do something about it.

Yet.

El Bee

ps. Don't freak too much if you see wisps of smoke coming out of the steering column. Mine sometimes does this when the ticking has been going on for a long time. No joke.

YES!!!

Mine does exactly the same thing, and indeed i would say it's the indicator stalk engaging slightly (or not disengaging properly).

And yeah, there's occasional wisps of smoke but don't worry that your car is on fire.

It's such a bitch to get the steering column apart that i cant be bothered in this hot queensland weather.

Haha, my car did the exact same thing for ages. It could be the indicator relay playing up. Mine stopped doing it all of a sudden and hasnt started. I also noticed smoke twice. Once after we had the steering column apart. All good now though.

Mine did that, I got the whole stalk assembly replaced (wiper and indicators are on the same unit) but it was replaced from a lesser model so I lost my fog switch on the indicator (Not that I have foggies anymore anyways). Fixed it right up

  • 2 months later...
Mine did that, I got the whole stalk assembly replaced (wiper and indicators are on the same unit) but it was replaced from a lesser model so I lost my fog switch on the indicator (Not that I have foggies anymore anyways). Fixed it right up

how much does it cost ya to replace that whole stalk assembly? Being new or from wreckers?

oh and another thing is there a step by step instructions on how to pull the steering column apart (without causing anything to break :D)? Could somebody care to explain please.

Thanks in advance :D

Finally got around to fixing this problem about 2 or 3 weeks ago.

Bought a second hand replacement for about $75.

I took the steering wheel off and the plastic surrounds etc, and found the stalk held in by about three screws.

All good now.

El Bee

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...