Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got two *z32* afms... however .. I assume need bth to be matched for my RB26DETT GTR Maybe its not so much an issue with GTS applications?

both 80mm howver the stickers are different.. the printed numbers.. 22680 30P00 A36-000 N62 is the same on both nut the printed / stamped black text is different.. one is 4X11C & the other 4819D

So the printed sticker part numbers are the same but one sticker is red the other is yellow... with different stamped numbers....

Will they be ok?

Will they require different PFC settings?!?

Help! :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63675-z32-afms-different-part-numbers/
Share on other sites

I recently bought a Bosch Z32 AFM that looks exactly the same to a Nissan Z32, right down to the orange sticker. The AFM I bought was listed as a part replacement for the Z32.

I've done a little search and came up with very little. :D

http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/show...goto=nextoldest

It doesn't look pink by any chance does it?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...815#post1025815

Thanks for looking, well they have the *same* actual part number on them, it is simply the 'stamped' black text that is different as is the colour of the sticker itself... hmmm :spcow: ....

So we have two AFM's, both 80mm, both the same part number but the differences are...

22680 30P00 A36-000 N62 with stamped black text under it with 4819D

(Yellow/Gold) sticker

&

22680 30P00 A36-000 N62 with stamped black text under it with 4X11C (Red/Orange) sticker

both have 4 pins with letter above them from A - F with only B-E having pins, the others look plastic sealed from factory so I don't think they've been modifed.

Will they work?

Will they read the same on a PFC?

You guys with twin turbos run Z32 AFMs with the same colour of sticker?!?

:hellpisd:

Green is the R32/R33 RB20/25.

Pink or what could look like red is the series 2 R33 RB25 from what I have gathered from searches. Can any one confirm?

I'm unsure what the VL or R31 RB30E AFM's sticker looks like.

The plug on the VL & R31 is the same as the Z32 so it could 'look' like a Z32.

Unsure. :D

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
I recently bought a Bosch Z32 AFM that looks exactly the same to a Nissan Z32, right down to the orange sticker. The AFM I bought was listed as a part replacement for the Z32.

Hey, how much was the bosch part if you dont mind saying? any cheaper than nissan?

I managed to track one down through a friend of a friend for $280 bran spankin new. :)

He has some affiliation with Bosch, I would have expected him to make a few $$ on top of what he bought it so it just goes to show the markup on the item from the middle men.

Its on the car now and working purrfectly.

I managed to track one down through a friend of a friend for $280 bran spankin new. :D

He has some affiliation with Bosch, I would have expected him to make a few $$ on top of what he bought it so it just goes to show the markup on the item from the middle men.

 

Its on the car now and working purrfectly.

damn that is a good price...

i think my AFM is reading high it maxxes out on 10psi (i have other mods though..) which in turn makes my car run really rich ie nearly 100% injector duty cycle but it might be because it is sucking in hot air at the moment.

either way i am considering buying a new afm.

do you know for sure if u have to retune power fc when changing from rb25 afm to Z32, or can u just select it on the menu and it will adjust for you?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What is the current snail?
    • Never an issue with boost control. No weird boost issues pre throttle at partial throttle like you're suggesting. It worked.   As for all the turbo damage claims, they all were started by aftermarket BOV companies. At least turbo timer companies had SOME truth about them, except people failed to realise that except for in extreme circumstances, that small amount of driving you do to park/ through pit lane etc, is enough to not have a need for a turbo timer.
    • I tell people all the time this stuff runs on a 2 MHz 8-bit MCU. The math is a bit arcane, they do a lot to get around their limited resolution and so on but it works great as-shipped. So if an 80 to 160 MHz modern 32-bit MCU can't make it work you've really screwed something up badly. Your average graphing calculator is faster these days, god forbid we start talking about what's hiding in vapes or some stupid internet-connected "smart appliance".  I suspect the lore about off-throttle surge damaging turbos must be very, very old if it was ever true. I still don't think off throttle surge is good for turbos because you're rapidly having air going in and out of the turbo on top of rapid loss in shaft speed which presumably does impart some kind of unusual load on the rotating assembly. As for the recirculating valve, I believe Nissan actually in a press slide deck of some kind explained for the RZ34 they found it improved response. Prior to that they kept the throttle cracked open instead which causes rev hang and because the throttle/engine is a substantial restriction a ton of the energy in the air stream is lost just to pumping past it. Recirculating helps reduce energy loss by bringing the intake side of the compressor up in pressure so it's not working as hard to pull air in. In DCT cars where they can slam gears I believe Porsche hangs the throttle wide open with no fuel injection to keep turbo RPMs as high as possible during the shift. As for running post-throttle boost source, I would be concerned that at partial throttle on boost you would have driveability issues. It would be constantly trying to run crazy amounts of boost before the throttle to compensate for the throttling effect. Maybe with a much more sophisticated boost control setup you could activate a solenoid that goes from a conventional 3-port setup to something that allows the wastegates to see full vacuum in that specific case? 
    • Did you clean everything out? Take all intercooler piping off, empty the intercooler of oil, clean the exhaust out, etc? Intercoolers make great catch cans... Which makes them less useful for intercooling... But very worth cleaning out, along with all adjoining piping.
    • Update Got turbo back from hypergear, installed everything etc. Bled coolant, wasn't smoking so I thought beauty she's sorted now. Went on a drive, car up to temp, let it idle for about 15 seconds, gave it some gas...nice puff of smoke again. Fml No doubt my turbo was pretty worn anyway but nonetheless frustrating that the problem persists.
×
×
  • Create New...