Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Cost of removing the block and putting it back in is around $2k to $2.5k of the total cost.

Richard,

I would definitely be handing over the engine to the experts for the actual rebuild - but would be tempted to have a go at pulling it out and replacing it myself if I was in your situation.

If you check out the GTR engine manual it's a pretty straight forward process, apart from the usual hand tools you only really need a bit of shed space, an engine hoist (cheap to hire, or better still borrow one) and a jack for the transmission. Always a good idea to take some pics as you go, and bag and tag everything so there's no dramas putting it back together.

Much better to be spending the $2.5k you would save on some better go fast bits than be paying some mechanic's first year apprentice to do exactly the same thing IMHO. Who knows, you might find that you could save even more by pulling off all the ancillaries and just sending the bare block and head in for the rebuild.

Pretty sure you could find a few of us willing to lend a hand if you needed it.

Anyways, just a thought............ :D

JD Thanks. What you say is absolutely true.

Ideally the help of some knowledgable people because I have concerns of using my car as a prolonged learning experience. I'm keen to get in and get dirty, as usual. So me plus a few able body volunteers please (3-4 I reckon).

Volunteers are sought for the following.

Hoist

Tools

Experience

Brains

Muscle

Pallet (Put Motor On) and Transport

I have a double Garage but would be concerned with staining the concrete (Rental). Then again I could find a way to overcome this (Tarp, Sand etc)

Once I get this sorted I'll organise a date (weekend) and the food/beverages.

Well if you need an extra set of hands i am happy to help out. i am probably like you richard but with even less knowledge so i guess i can be the muscles :headspin: personally i reckon you should just get some old sheets and chuck em down on the ground they work fine at absorbing stuff plus they dont rip likea tarp might

JD Thanks. What you say is absolutely true.

 

Ideally the help of some knowledgable people because I have concerns of using my car as a prolonged learning experience. I'm keen to get in and get dirty, as usual. So me plus a few able body volunteers please (3-4 I reckon).

 

Volunteers are sought for the following.

Hoist

Tools

Experience

Brains

Muscle

Pallet (Put Motor On) and Transport

 

I have a double Garage but would be concerned with staining the concrete (Rental). Then again I could find a way to overcome this (Tarp, Sand etc)

 

Once I get this sorted I'll organise a date (weekend) and the food/beverages.

have tools, sockets and ring spanners (good ones too not super cheap specials)

some experiance (minis need rebuilds too) can come up with good answers for wierd questions.

Not much of a good worker but. Much better at looking and working out problems then bossing other ppl to do it. Not always the right way either. lol. j/k

Ute for transport.

JD Thanks. What you say is absolutely true.

 

Ideally the help of some knowledgable people because I have concerns of using my car as a prolonged learning experience. I'm keen to get in and get dirty, as usual. So me plus a few able body volunteers please (3-4 I reckon).

 

Volunteers are sought for the following.

Hoist

Tools

Experience

Brains

Muscle

Pallet (Put Motor On) and Transport

 

I have a double Garage but would be concerned with staining the concrete (Rental). Then again I could find a way to overcome this (Tarp, Sand etc)

 

Once I get this sorted I'll organise a date (weekend) and the food/beverages.

Use that plastic bonnet, tear it off, slide it under the car motor and then you have a top oil catch drip tray.

You was always gunna get a proper bonnet anyway mate.

PS If you'd owned Triumphs you'd be a real spanner man by now and able to tackle anything.

As I PMed Richard:

Triumph, turning ordinary men into great mechanics since 1902.

Basically you buy anything thats 30 years old and owned by 10 different ppl [some of whom knew little and others who thought they knew everything about Triumphs], it's gunna need a full rebuild and check up from the ground up.

The new[after 1992] Triumphs are like all modern machinery, boringly reliable.

Im there if you need a hand Rich....

Done 2yrs apprentice mech at an Engine Reco garage...

Pulled a few engines out in my days...

can also just stand there for the looks... :(

Im sure i can chuck in a few good tips..

Let us know...

See, how easy was that? You could almost sell tickets......might need a bigger venue even :wassup:

And all those times the missus' said we wos wasting our time on web forums, pffffft.

Now with all that experience on hand, when you have that engine pulled out and swinging in the breeze it wouldn't be too hard to just lovingly loosen them there sump bolts, carefully caress the main bearing cap fastenings, and take a peak at the damage (it is the bottom end, right?)

Who knows, you might end up with a much smaller job (and bill) than you initially thought :)

Richard, if you need an engine hoist, creeper etc.. give me a yell. It's a shame to see such a nice car broken. BTW, i'm not trying to drum myself up work, just sorry to hear what happened. You may be able to just remove the crank and regrind/replace it if the conrod isn't damaged. It would be worth checking out the oil pump while it's off too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. A 3d wheel alignment is like $120...just take it to the shop. Since theres probably multiple adjustments that need to be made after changing something. Mine has front/rear lower arms, traction rods, tension rods, camber arms, toe arms, front upper arms, hicas kit, sway bars and coilovers. I measure from the edge of the bolt holes on the originals and set the same length on all the adjustable stuff to dial it as close as I could to OEM. Took it straight for alignment; it didnt feel right at all...after alignment, it feels perfect. Similarly i've just changed the springs on another car; and I still needed multiple adjustments to bring it back in spec.
    • A full Veilside kitted JZA80 Supra in Meriken park in Kobe city a few weeks back
    • Its a well known brand in New Zealand; its a rebrand of the Rhino RAV3.  I don't know what the wiring difference *is* between the rev.1 (installed about 15 years ago) and rev.2; but as you say I would think its reasonable that it uses the same immobiliser relay circuits. I had a look but couldnt see a similar harness; but didnt move things around since I didnt want to mess with it   It was one of AVS well known Authorised Installers; I spoke to AVS themselves about it but theyre unsure hence seeking advice more so from the skyline community who are more familiar with the actual car and its wiring. Im in Auckland; but the installer is on the other side of the city so hes very reluctant to come back to even look at it to confirm something isnt connected into the wrong wire.  I dont want to drop the name since they *did* do a really good job for the most part. Everything is very tidy and he fully replaced all the alarm wiring, all the sensors, the wiring to the door motors, installed a switch which was never installed in the first place...really happy with the alarm install itself..just not this one issue. We all make mistakes, if it is the alarm, I just want my fuel pump getting proper switched, fused, power as it was; without having to shell out for an auto electrician to switch a wire and tell me it was the alarm. 
    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
×
×
  • Create New...