Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got my car dynod today and made 225rwkw at 16psi boost. What do you guys think, im cut seeing sum1 else on the forums pull 240rwkw at 13psi.

Modifications:

GCG 450hp hi flow

Bosh fuel pump

700cc Injectors

Haltec e6x

3 inch exhaust

Dump Pipe

FMIC

Pod Filter

Im spewing coz i had Vortex 98 in my car for the tune and my car was running like shit before i took it in. It is sumtimes pinging is this bad???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64326-my-results-after-mods/
Share on other sites

Hi

Basically i have the same as you, only running a pfc instead .... and the tuner REALLY knows his way around the pfc ...

not a bad result tho ... how does it drive ?

Got my car dynod today and made 225rwkw at 16psi boost. What do you guys think, im cut seeing sum1 else on the forums pull 240rwkw at 13psi.

Modifications:

GCG 450hp hi flow

Bosh fuel pump

700cc Injectors

Haltec e6x

3 inch exhaust

Dump Pipe

FMIC

Pod Filter

Im spewing coz i had Vortex 98 in my car for the tune and my car was running like shit before i took it in. It is sumtimes pinging is this bad???

it drives good. I had 171kw before the dyno. Yee the mechanic specialises in in haltech computers he was happy with the result. I rekon with the better fuel i could of got better.

Oh yeee wats this about haveing to change the coils for more power???? the mechanic said its not good to boost it more until i change this?

The stock coils aren't the greatest on an rb25. Seems to be limited to the 25 though, not the 20 or 26 which is a bit strange.

You'll find the car will develop a miss around the point of peak torque over time at higher power if your coils are getting a little old. I'm considering a set of splitfires atm, or retro fitting my rb20 coils and ignitor as an interim measure

I can't work this coil paranoia out, I have no problems at 265 rwkw with standard RB25 coils. Maybe it's because I use NGK copper plugs with 0.8mm gap. I have no problems with RB26 coils at 400+ rwkw either, but I use NGK copper plugs at 0.7mm gap. I have no problems with RB20 coils at 225 rwkw, but I use NGK copper plugs at 0.8 mm gap.

I see a trend there:cheers:

I agree....

Remember you need 3 things to get combustion in a petrol motor...

1. Fuel

2. Air

3. Ignition.....

If you want more power you need to increase the amount of the above to comply...

IE> A V8 has a higher capicity, more fuel and more air with 8 spark plug more ignigition. This equates to power power. A skyline has a turbo and very large injectors for its class. This means more fuel and air but no more ignighton.

You have done the steps to increase air and fuel... Now its time to increase ignightion...

Make sence????

Cheers Col

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not wrong but 5W30 at 100C is like 10 cSt vs 25 cSt for 10W60. If we think in terms of viscosity margin 10W60 will probably still be ok at 130C but 5W30 is probably too little. It's absolutely shocking how hot the oil gets in something like a stock FL5 from only ~3 minutes of use on the Nordschleife. I would not risk taking a car like that to anything remotely intense without a ton of work done for cooling. Heat shielding on the manifold/turbo/downpipe, oil coolers, etc. 
    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
×
×
  • Create New...