Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive searched and searched and i cant find any info on the stats on, or where to by the d-jetro. I would prefere to buy it in aus and also from someone with the software for it ,any help is appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64487-where-to-buy-apexi-pfc-d-jetro/
Share on other sites

I think Croydons are the only ones in Australia with the genuine PFC Excel software, I have not seen any differences in the software for DJ's. We use the various versions of Datalogit and they seems to work OK as well. You just get a couple of extra options on the set up. Amybe pop over to www.fc-datalogit.com and ask a few questions about DJ's and software versions.

We get PFC's from Nengun, never had a problem buying stuff from them :D

so if i talk to nengun can i just ask for the power d-jetro when ordering a pfc .... and can it be tuned through the hc or does it only interface with a computer. SK are you saying you cant see why the croydon software wouldnt work???? I have talked with datalogic and they believe there software will support the d-jetro but i dont really want to buy the computer then fork out $550 for the software if i can do it through the hand controller!!!

The Commander tunes all PFC's as far as fuel and igition mapping is concerned. Just that some of the less used menu items aren't accessible via the Commander (same as all PFC's) and need the PC software to get at them.

The real question here is, why do you think you need a DJ in lieu of a standard PFC? :D

the reason im going for that is i originally had lined up a microtech ltx12 but they where going to custom build one for me with a few extra features such as cdi and more outputs but judging on their previous form i really cant wait a year, so i want to go the PFC DJ because previously i have had some bad experience with my large single turbo and a greedy type r blow off valve of reversion back through the airflow meters.i have tested this and i was seeing voltage swings of up to 3volts in the wrong direction causing over riching issues in between gear changes at medium throttle when the blow off valve was only slightly opening. I believe that running a map sensored computer will eliminate all my reversion problems that why i have choosen it.

the reason im going for that is i originally had lined up a microtech ltx12 but they where going to custom build one for me with a few extra features such as cdi and more outputs but judging on their previous form i really cant wait a year, so i want to go the PFC DJ because previously i have had some bad experience with my large single turbo and a greedy type r blow off valve of reversion back through the airflow meters.i have tested this and i was seeing voltage swings of up to 3volts in the wrong direction causing over riching issues in between gear changes at medium throttle when the blow off valve was only slightly opening. I believe that running a map sensored computer will eliminate all my reversion problems that why i have choosen it.

My suggestion would always be to use AFM's wherever possible, they are simply the best method for accurately sensing airflow into the engine and therefore tuning it. There are other ways to overcome reversion, for example HKS (and others) make a simple voltage modifier that holds the AFM voltage solid during gearchanges (and sharp back off). Thus the AFM doesn't report the double airflow to the ECU. The HKS unit is called a EIDS (Electronic Idle Stabiliser) they also have a EIDS Pro (Electronic Idle stabiliser Pro) but I haven't seen one of those in operation yet.

eids.jpgeidspro.jpg

Other, more simpler, methods are to use a decent plumb back BOV (such as the standard GTR ones). Generally 50% of the short term richness problem attributed to reversion is really caused by running an atmosphere BOV. And 50% of what's left is due to poor BOV location and operation.

A larger diameter inlet pipe from the AFM to the turbo also helps, as does the longest pipe you can fit.

Apexi's own 1100 ps drag car (VMax) uses AFM's, obviously they could have gone to map sensors if they wanted, but they chose to go for a pair of Q45 AFM's. I am sure they didn't do it for any reason other than it offered a performance advantage. At the very least, it offered no performance dissadvantage.

My 20 cents worth:cheers:

i have the blow off valve set as plum back the problem being the type R only vents or really opens fully about 12-14psi below that i still have the compressor reversion... i will look into these hks units but granted i am chasing big power i dont have an endless financial stream that extends to q45 afms as i have checked and they are around $1100 each new. Previously i had twin rb25 units and i believe i will be pushing them to there limits at around 400rwkw i know i could upgrade to z32 units but again i still have the expense, and the risk of reversion. Another reason i didnt mind going to the map is due to the fact the car wont be driven on the road often and wont encounter the various climatic and load changes that afms are so great at measuring. I understand the apexi drag car runs afms but after talking along time ago with an apexi engineer he mentioned they dont need to worry about the reversion due to the fact the car changes gear so quickly and the fact it is at full load and the blow off valves will always vent the excees air. He basically mentioned there isnt a problem running map as they do on there toyota engines and the reason they run the afms on the apexi gtr car is due to the fact they dont need to tune as often to climatic and altitude changes. Any thoughts???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...