Jump to content
SAU Community

Blitz SBC ID - where to go to get a install?

Hiroshima Screamer
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hiroshima Screamer Grand Master

Hiroshima Screamer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks DAN but even though it looks easy im not that brave at least now i can say i have the instructions when i do ring up a shop .

Also looking to find out how much it would cost ? i already got quoted $120.00 from powerplay but was told they aren't to keen on s/h items.

DAN00H Mentor

DAN00H

Posted
Posted
thanks DAN but even though it looks easy im not that brave at least now i can say i have the instructions when i do ring up a shop .

Also looking to find out how much it would cost ? i already got quoted $120.00 from powerplay but was told they aren't to keen on s/h items.

no worries mate - I've got a brand new one that I'm putting in tonight (if I finish the fencing...), I 'll see if it has a diagram of your engine and how to connect. (it has a diagram of my RB26 and how to connect). Money is better in your pocket than someone elses!

As for the setting up once installed, best thing to do is set channel 1 to 10 psi. Taken from SAU thread today :( go ito channel 1, select manual, boost - set to 43, gain set to 10 = 10psi. raise the boost numbers slightly each time to increase boost, BUT leasve the gain at 10 :(

Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

Posted
Posted

I would be the person you are talking about....

You can do it yourself. 2 wires man.... Hardest part os deciding where to put the control unit. Mount the dual sol behind the passanger strut and make sure your piping is less than 3 feet. The shorter the faster it will respond.

It should take you about 1 hours to install....

Put your hose and wireing through the main loom gromment and mount the main control unit under the stereo.

Cheers Col

DAN00H Mentor

DAN00H

Posted
Posted
I would be the person you are talking about....

You can do it yourself. 2 wires man.... Hardest part os deciding where to put the control unit. Mount the dual sol behind the passanger strut and make sure your piping is less than 3 feet. The shorter the faster it will respond.

It should take you about 1 hours to install....

Put your hose and wireing through the main loom gromment and mount the main control unit under the stereo.  

Cheers Col

Good job Col - useful stuff for the rest of the SAUer's

Hiroshima Screamer Grand Master

Hiroshima Screamer

Posted
  • Author
Posted
no worries mate - I've got a brand new one that I'm putting in tonight (if I finish the fencing...), I 'll see if it has a diagram of your engine and how to connect. (it has  a diagram of my RB26 and how to connect). Money is better in your pocket than someone elses!

As for the setting up once installed, best thing to do is set channel 1 to 10 psi.  Taken from SAU thread today :) go ito channel 1, select manual, boost - set to 43, gain set to 10 = 10psi. raise the boost numbers slightly each time to increase boost, BUT leasve the gain at 10 :D

Dan just wondering if you had a chance to put your b/c in yet ?

DAN00H Mentor

DAN00H

Posted
Posted
Dan just wondering if you had a chance to put your b/c in yet ?

Hi Mate

I started - mounted the unit and ran the lines, but I got home late last night (and I'm a fussy bastard and want it to look at neat as possible!). I looked in the book and found a diagram of how to hook it up in your car :) so will bring it with me tomorrow and try to get it scanned here at work. if I can't, I'll do my best to tell you what goes where.

PM me your email details.

Cheers

  • 3 weeks later...
Hiroshima Screamer Grand Master

Hiroshima Screamer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Today was my first run with the SBC id have to say its a big difference , very happy with it but i have a question dose the Peak screen tell the user what the boost is going up to ect ?

How did you go Dan , what boost have you taken yours up to ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...