Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I am in need of a new set of front discs for the pretty stock R32 Gtst, wondering what to get. I have fitted racebrakes rb74 pads and am looking to upgrade the discs aswell.

What would be better for my needs? (Slightly increased performance, not too expensive, must last for about as long as the standard ones)

DBA909 slotted - $190ea

DBA909 slotted and cross drilled - $210ea

DBA4909 Standard - $194ea

DBA4909 Slotted - $246ea

Are the 4000 series worth the extra money. or should i get slotted and cross drilled standard series for the same price as the standard 4000's?

Thanks,

Rhett

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65014-which-brake-discs-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

We run 4000 series front and rear... Way to go. I believe dba also cast discs for some leading top end names too so there is nothing wrong with the build.

If you have 17" wheels, put on a set of V Spec Brembo's and 5000 series on the front. We run this combo on the circuit and they stay well within temp limits.

Good braking

TT

Thanks Jarrod. Ill go with the DBA4909s then. Does anyone know anywhere that could do them for less than the $246ea Racebrakes quoted me? Although i think this is a pretty good price, since i tried supercheap, bursons, repco etc and got crazy quotes of ~$350ea

Jarrod are you coming to the GOR cruise next weekend?

Rhett

Hey man,

I have R33 brakes all round on my r32.

The fronts are slotted and drilled. Been like that for 2 years, i drive the car hard and there are no stress fratures or cracking on the front discs. If you drill all the way through the disc then you are at serious risk of cracking them.

With a decent pad combo, they are very impressive.

its another option to look at if price is an issue with the DBAs... but it sounds like the DBA discs are the go. With the praise in this thread, when i am up for new discs i will definitely go with the higher end DBA's

Thanks Jarrod.  Ill go with the DBA4909s then.  Does anyone know anywhere that could do them for less than the $246ea Racebrakes quoted me?  Although i think this is a pretty good price, since i tried supercheap, bursons, repco etc and got crazy quotes of ~$350ea

Jarrod are you coming to the GOR cruise next weekend?

Rhett

ABS quoted me $220 each.

Also look at RDA brakes I think it is. Apparently they are just as good as the DBAs just a hella lot cheaper. Worth while to at least get a quote.

Haveing said that tho I went the DBA4000s with what seems the recomended RB74 pads, seems to work a treat, just I make sure I warm the pads up going down my street every morning, otherwise sometimes they arent all that responsive at first (I have to drive thru 3 shcool zones before the car is warmed up properly, so I do it so I dont kill some little brat)

I have RDA rotors in my R32 GTS4 and they've seen five 5lap sessions at QLD raceway a couple of weeks ago, no fade on the day at all have had no probs at all, using the Bendix ultimates pads which only cost $90 for a front set.

RDA are a big manufacturer and are tied in with EBC brakes.

And they are reasonably priced not over the top like DBAs

I got mine for $77 each, slotted cost around $120, I wouldnt bother with the cross drilled.

http://www.rdabrakes.com.au/prodinfo.htm

Stephen

RDA doesnt have a performance based disc do they? I guess their slotted rotors would be similar to the DBA909s, but would come close to the 4000 series rotors?

so does supercheap auto... wonder whether they can get the performance stuff?

Yeah they quoted me for DBA4000's but the quote was ridiculous. They knew it was a crap price but just told me to got to autobahn or bursons and they would match their price - which was crap too.

ABS and racebrakes are by far the cheapest ive come across.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...