Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If you can confirm that it has all the tabs etc to bolt straight in, sockets for std temp isntrument etc, and the 40mm radiator will not foul on the power steering then ill be in...

Sory about the questions, but the power steering on the passenger side sits pretty close to the std radiator, so just want to be sure:)

Hey Guys,

They have all been ordered and everything has been finalised with PWR.

The ball is in their court so to speak and I really don't have much to do with it anymore. My part is done. (ofcourse I will be following up and involved until everyone recieves their products)

(only two people have placed orders from SAU)

I'll keep you updaed and I migft organise another group buy in the the near future.

Luke, I recieved yor pm and hopefully answered your question in this post. If Not please send me another one.

Cheers

Sam

Hey Guys, Spoke to PWR today they put on 4 new techs or help ease the load.

Looking at getting the rest of the money so I can pay them the full amount on Monday.

Hopefully get the orders out next week.

Please don't delay. As i can inly release the goods when they have all the money!

GTR R32. Pm sent!

Cheers

Sam

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...