Jump to content
SAU Community

Question about an R32 GTR

Nugget_GTR

By Nugget_GTR,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Nugget_GTR Collaborator

Nugget_GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Nugget what size front and rear tyres do you have

I have 255 x 17 on all 4

Now, back on topic - Nugget, did you replace all 4 tyres? Did you replace them with the same type / size at each corner?

yeah i replaced all 4 tires i did have P-Zeros on the front and yokahama advans on the rear. now i have kumho KU21's on all 4 yeah and they are all the same size 17x255 40's

it just feels so much different like really lacking power. like i can be doing 160 in 5th and put the foot down and the torque will go to 10, but its also depends how much i put the foot down, half way it will only go in the middle of 0 and 10. before the new tires and wheel alignment it would only really go to the front if i launched of quick snap second quick or take a corner kicking it out. but once moving it would always drop to 0 at the fronts.. which was good. but now as long as i have the foot down it will always sit at 10...... see that could be normal but it felt so much better the old way.

my coments on the abs is it doesnt bother me so much cause i have mostly driven old shitters with no abs so im used to it, but i have to say abs has saved my arse a few times when skipy's and cars that have pulled out in front.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
If you can't stop properly without ABS, you are a retard and should not be driving on the road.

And would you say the same about brake boosters grandpa.

Get with the times old man.

Or are these new fangled inventions just too much for ya.

aKTiVE Collaborator

aKTiVE

Posted
Posted
If you can't stop properly without ABS, you are a retard and should not be driving on the road.

ahahahaaha

ABS is a good thing, it helps assist people that dont know better in an emergency braking situation... not everyone is Ayrton Senna.

I have ABS disconnected in my cars, i hate the pedal feed back when it comes on, and more importantly, relying on ABS is not a good thing at all, there are instances when ABS will not help you in the slightest and no matter what, you are a passenger in your car.

I agree that when you are going to learn to drive a car hard/fast, you need to be able to drive relying on as little as possible to be a truely great driver.

But some people are retards and need ABS and aircon.

hehe j/k

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
ahahahaaha

ABS is a good thing, it helps assist people that dont know better in an emergency braking situation... not everyone is Ayrton Senna.

I have ABS disconnected in my cars, i hate the pedal feed back when it comes on, and more importantly, relying on ABS is not a good thing at all, there are instances when ABS will not help you in the slightest and no matter what, you are a passenger in your car.

I agree that when you are going to learn to drive a car hard/fast, you need to be able to drive relying on as little as possible to be a truely great driver.

 

But some people are retards and need ABS and aircon.

hehe j/k

This is exactly true.

All I am saying is....don't go and cut someone's brake lines and not tell them about it.

And before anyone reply's to that, I don't mean that literally.

I'm sure Nugget_GTR can manage to brake on his own without the ABS.

And I'm sure that always_me doesn't intend to put Nugget in danger.

But....you have to remember that Nugget is relying on the words of others who may or may not be more experienced than he is. If you are to offer advice here then make sure you know the consequences so that Nugget can make up his own mind.

Nugget_GTR Collaborator

Nugget_GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hahaha, what?? when did this turn into me not being able to brake.

I was asking why my torque would be different now that i got new tires and an alignment.... i think someone said they where tied into the abs system.... for the record the GTR is the first car with abs i have had, used to rally the old 1980 323 RWD hatches.. they where the best. ABS does have its advantages though.

anyway how about the torque issue??? hehe :cheers:

Nugget_GTR Collaborator

Nugget_GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hi Scott,  

Do you have the same brand and size tyres front and back?  

Did you get all 4 tyres new at the same time?

Any variations in size can cause the torque to go to the front.

Yeah got all 4 at the same time all the same size all the same tyre...

i might get someone to check out the susspension cause i think there is a camber issue for the front wheels.,,, could that cause it??

LOL!

Don't want 4WD?

Don't want ABS?

And you've got a GTR? WTF were you thinking? You should have bought an AE82 Corolla!

I never said i didnt want ABS i was just carrying on the discussion

And i do want 4WD just liked it the way it used to be thats all was more aggressive you could say.

what was i thinking when i bought the GTR... "I want godzilla" plus i wanted something that wasnt so common.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...