Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I blew my RB20DET 5spd man box at local drags using slicks

Whats the best way to get strengh so this wont happen again

now im contemplating in either using a RB25DET 5spd as they are supposed to be stronger than the RB20DET unit, Also will my RB20 clutch (exedy HD) be ok to use with the RB25 box??

or is there any auto boxes that are strong that will work, like RB20 or RB25???

I just dont want to go back out again and destroy another gearbox on slicks...

Do in this order

1.Bin RB20det box

2.Laugh at how small it is

3.Find RB25det box

4.Admire it's fatness and giggle like a school girl

But seriously it will bolt to the RB20,use the RB20 flywheel/clutch,you need to mod the gearbox mount with some flat bar,use R33 slave,shifter and the yoke or vlt yoke.Speedo,if it's cable I hear a cut down?vlt sender could work

How much power are you making, and what sort of rpm did u decide to dump the clutch at? Are you wanting a straight bolt up gearbox, im guessing you have an rb20 in a vl? what about the mx7? rb30et gearbox. You could always get anything, just depending how much money you want to spend. You could go all out and get a tremec tko 6 spd :rolleyes: haha

MX-7's are weak as shit too.

they are soo old they just shatter. I've seen heaps die here in Vic.

Mine, and a mates.

Get an RB25 box and you'll be fine. Just make sure you get a yoke with it.

whats the point of a yoke when they are pressed and seal uni joints and have to be scrapped???

I got a yoke with my 5psd but when i took it to the driveline place they said they couldnt use it. I think i ended up getting a suitable Mark William "V8 Supercar spec" yoke with replaceable uni joints for SFA

you can use em. I need one for my 25box to fit to my car.

tierh that or its the driveshaft... so i got both. :rolleyes:

been a while since my workshop has done a 25 box... as usually cars aint POS's like mine... hehe

i am in the middle of the same gearbox convert. All boxes seem to be from $1500 to $2000. The yolks as far as i know can be blended with the standard uni. I have a friend who did this convert and thats what he did and it seemed to work. Not 100% sure but thats what he said.

Are you guys still talking about a second hand box???

Why bother putting in a box that has had the k's wound up on it already, and god knows how that was treated. Why dont you just get a box and rebuild it properly with all new bearing cogs, the lot. Of course strengthened parts. Might cost more, but hey, for that peace of mind ...

and mx7's arent that bad, i had a vlt gave them thing so much shit, was on the way out when i got it, and was still going 18 mths later. with plenty of flat changes. haha

From what I have heard they are the same strength but the RB25 Box has much better designed syncros.

Yeah, I would agree with that completely, thats what should have been said in the first place by the other users.

;)

Tizzle,

32702 - 02G17 pinnion assembly

If they ask what model car say Navara. shouldnt cost more than $26

I got mine from Metro Nissan at Windsor... Those guys are complete wankers in my opinion.. Good luck ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...