Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think my oil pump died tonight in the hills, Now I've got an awful rattle and an oil guage that sits on 0. At least it happened up there where I could pretty much roll it all the way home, and not on my way to uni or something.

Anyway.... I guess I'm looking at a new pump, bearings, probably rings, maybe a hone, new cam chain etc.

What is that going to cost me in parts? I can probably fumble my way through the labour if I can find someone with some knowledge or a decent guide to follow, but I'm not sure how much the parts will be, and where the best place to get them is? Will a nissan dealer sell me the necessary parts?

Thanks

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Nissan outlets probably won't know what an FJ20 is as they were never sold here .

You could talk to Allen engineering at Mallala as they've done these engines . Its impossible to assess the cost untill the engine is out and stripped down as speculation is only guess work .

As a drive in drive out rebuild using all genuine parts (Nissan) figure on a bill of about $4 - 5000+ . Thats for remove strip assess damage , bore hone new pistons rings bearings chains/guides/tensioners strip head , reshim new springs reassemble fit and start inc oil/filter/plugs gaskets seals welsh plugs etc . These are not a cheap engine to work on - very labour intensive . The chain drive and valve clearence system is very time consuming to set up and thats for people who know them . There are 2 chains and tensioners and 3 guides for the top cam chain . To set valve clearences , first measure them , remove cams/buckets/shim caps and select fit shims to match . For reliabilitys sake the head needs to be skimmed (.003) and valves/seats assessed .

A far cheaper alternative is to buy another one that been done . If you are serious I know where there is one but its in Sydney so freight involved . The bite is about $2000 .

Anyway talk to Craig and Adam Allen , they should be able to point you in the right direction .

Its a shit of a situation (I was there once) .

Cheers A .

My local Nissan dealership(Midland Nissan Perth) supplied my head gasket,all chain guides and sump gasket etc.Bearings are availible through repco,veale parts shops in either acl or ntc brands.Take your timing chain into your local trev speed shop to match one up(mine was made in germany)and shortened to fit.about $80.

If your head is ok,mine cost about $2200 with arias pistons,all machining/oringing,balancing etc.You save the money by making many phone calls and doining the labour yourself.

Good luck

Todd

How likely is it that I'd need new pistons?

I'm looking at selling the Triumph now... that should allow me to buy that engine and get started on rebuilding mine, which... in the long run might be a good way to go, I could build it up like Todd's over time and eventually have a monster, then sell the spare when that one goes in

Cheers for the replies guys

Suprisingly I'm not in that bad a mood atm, I would have thought I'd be pissed about this, but since it was the oil pump (no other way it could lose pressure? Still full of oil, no leaks) it was going to happen anyway.

Oil pumps are damn expensive as they are part of the timing cover. Go down to unley nissan for spare parts they are real good, thats were me and pretty much everyone I know with DR's gets there FJ bits and pieces from, if they dont have the bits they get them sent over from japan.

I'm planning on ringing around for forged pistons and a copper head gasket tomorrow along with a few other nice bits and pieces.

there was a place here on the coast selling a dr half cut for 2200 if it going to be that much may as well get some spears out of it or make some money back!!

panels in sliver or white?? brakes headlights, filler panel and alot of other goodies.

I'm going to rebuild it.... eventually

I won't really have time to bugger around doing that so if I can afford to buy an engine in the mean-time I know I can have it in and running in a weekend.

I refuse to drive the Alto to Flinders more than I have to... theres no way I could put up with that

I'm going to rebuild it.... eventually

I won't really have time to bugger around doing that so if I can afford to buy an engine in the mean-time I know I can have it in and running in a weekend.

I refuse to drive the Alto to Flinders more than I have to... theres no way I could put up with that

Why whats wrong with the alto?? We all have to drive something we don't like driving at times dude, its the nature of the game.......

Shane, I have a nice Triumph sitting in the shed that I'd rather be driving and you've seen how big I am... I just don't fit in a Kei terribly well. But I wanted a kei so I bought it anyway. Its ok for short journeys but Flinders is 40 min each way and my ankle doesnt like being on that angle for that long. I would like to see it with a 2 inch exhaust and more boost though...

Josh, its a '86 RS (I think... I found a page that has all the models) with a F5A efi intercooled turbo, part time 4wd. Best thing about it is that it has the same block as the aussie ones and the same box, so all the filters and stuff are easily replaceable, as is the gearbox (synchros on first and second arent great atm but it doesnt really bother me because I can drive it without crunching them) and the twincam F5B head fits the block (havent tried it but thats what I've been told). $1700 and its yours, body is really good apart from one small spot, interior has no rips. Yahoo sells them for about $2500+ plus getting them registered and all that entails

Im just waiting on some money back from a certain good person then it'll be full steam ahead...So im kinda hoping next month or so, but im not holding my breath on it....I actually popped the bonnet on it the other day, that was a big start!!!

A genuine full gasket set for a FJ20ET is around $400 new. Rings/bearings are comparable to most other Nissan engines. Pistons aren't cheap for anything, but as a comparison, we had to do a full rebuild on my sisters GTiR, and including new pistons the total for parts was less than $2000.

Adam, if your local dealer won't play ball (and N.E. Nissan gave me the runaround for some simple 240Z & Stagea parts). Go to Grand Nissan - Terry or Boyd will get whatever you need. Tell 'em I sent you....

A genuine full gasket set for a FJ20ET is around $400 new. Rings/bearings are comparable to most other Nissan engines. Pistons aren't cheap for anything, but as a comparison, we had to do a full rebuild on my sisters GTiR, and including new pistons the total for parts was less than $2000.

 

Adam, if your local dealer won't play ball (and N.E. Nissan gave me the runaround for some simple 240Z & Stagea parts). Go to Grand Nissan - Terry or Boyd will get whatever you need. Tell 'em I sent you....

North east nissan were wanks when i called them about some stuff for my car!! :zap: Wouldn't be dealing with them again, i deal with Datsport and i beleive he deals with Grand Nissan doesn't he????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...