Jump to content
SAU Community

r32: rattling gone when on clutch?

whodaman
 Share

Recommended Posts

whodaman Contributor

whodaman

Posted
Posted

Hi,

Anyone know how to fix this problem?

I change gears fine. everything works.

There is this rattling noise that bothers me. I don't hear it when cruising along with the exhaust and radio going. But, while idling in neutral, I can hear a rattling noise maybe in the gear box?

The noise goes away when I step on the clutch.

What to do? Replace whole gearbox? Is it a flywheel problem?

my car is a 2.0 gts r32 4dr sedan, manual...

I had the gear box oil changed 2.5 years ago. I noticed the rattling in the last 3 months.

a mechanic says to wait until it goes then he'll fix it. somehow I think fixing it now is better than waiting for "it"(?) to go...

Thanks to anyone who helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65248-r32-rattling-gone-when-on-clutch/
Share on other sites
OFENSV Proficient

OFENSV

Posted
Posted

mine use to do it but wasnt real bad. Clutch wore out not long after so i put new clutch and bearing in and was all good. depends how bad yours is. if it sounds like its about to seize id get it done soon as you dont want it to sieze and stuff your pressure plate

OFENSV Proficient

OFENSV

Posted
Posted
Ok.. i'll have to keep an eye out for gearboxes for sale...  thanks dude

why? the thrust bearing is part of the clutch. goes on the clutch fork, can buy them seperate or probably better of replacing clutch at same time. if it is that dont see why you need to look for a gearbox

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted
I change gears fine. everything works.

There is this rattling noise that bothers me.  I don't hear it when cruising along with the exhaust and radio going.  But, while idling in neutral, I can hear a rattling noise maybe in the gear box?

The noise goes away when I step on the clutch..

Odds on it's a noisy clutch throw-out bearing. Cheap to fix...maybe $50+fitting, but it's been a long time since I bought just the bearing as it's usually changed when the clutch is replaced. Since the gearbox has to come out anyway to fix it, it would be worthwhile checking the condition of the clutch while its out.

I had the gear box oil changed 2.5 years ago.  I noticed the rattling in the last 3 months.

You're definately overdue for an oil change...I assume the level has at least been checked since it was changed ?? Still, if it's changing gears normally then it's probably just the clutch t/out bearing (above).

a mechanic says to wait until it goes then he'll fix it.  somehow I think fixing it now is better than waiting for "it"(?) to go....

A t/out bearing can be noisy for a very long time before it actually fails completely. Usually they just seize and the whole thing gets VERY noisy. Don't think I'd wait until it actually failed tho....

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

The worse the carrier bearing gets, the more it can wear out the clutch. If it seizes, it'll wear down the face of the bearing, then the clutch won't fully disengage. Some don't get like that but it can happen.

If there were a problem with the gearbox, I would imagine you would be able to hear it while driving, as neutral is not a loaded position. More likely to be the carrier bearing. If the noise sounds bad then get it changed immediately. Get the clutch done at the same time as OFENSV mentioned.

Should cost around the $600 mark for an upgraded clutch fitted drive away.

Would prolly cost around $200-$250 to just do the Carrier bearing (which only costs about $15). It often pays to do the rear main seal while your in there but it should be ok if it's not leaking at all.

There is a test you can do to tell the difference between the carrier bearing and gearbox noise. Just rest your foot on the clutch to take up the free play. Don't push it to the floor. This will push the carrier bearing up against the pressure plate but won't disengage the clutch. If the noise goes away like before, then the carrier bearing is the one.

BiZzReVhEad Community Regular

BiZzReVhEad

Posted
Posted

yer mines goin too ... im gunna do it soon , so long as i can find meself a few hrs and no rain.

Do u need any specialized tools to get the box out ? i only got a few sockets and spanners :( .. oh and bugga gettin a mechanic to charge u 200 bucks to pull the box out !

RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

The thrust/throw out bearing for the clutch only spins when the clutch is pressed in to the floor.

Yet you said the noise goes away when you step on the clutch?

Therfore it isn't the throwout/clutch bearing.

This is why you shouldn't sit at lights holding the clutch in as you wear the bearing out unnecessarily.

It will be one of two things.

One, its as simple as the input shaft bearing being stuffed. (Needs replacment)

Two, the hard casing has worn off the input shaft and main cluster gear in the box meaning all these parts will need replacing, therfore its cheaper to replace box altogether.

To rebuild it is going to cost some money. You would be better off to wait till it goes, then just replace it with another. RB20 boxes aren't worth much these days.

BiZzReVhEad Community Regular

BiZzReVhEad

Posted
Posted

sorry to sound like a dumb ass but wat ? i thought if the throwout bearing was on its way if u pushed the clutch in the noise would go away ...

Ur sayin its the input shaft bearing ? umm isnt there only 1 bearing (that big round one) and a bush in the bak of block (brass) where shaft goes . Wats the "Input shaft bearing" . now im scared . I should just grab a new box . There is a small wind in the gears to i not sure if thats all bearing either . Wat u think , just grab new box to be safe , i dont wanna put the new bearings on and put it all bak in to find out i wasted all that time for nothing

Sorry to hijak ur thread wodaman .. me havin same issues :)

BiZzReVhEad Community Regular

BiZzReVhEad

Posted
Posted

ummm , actually ... i was told that it is Actually the input shaft bearing .. John from UAS said thats wat was wrong wif my box . "welcome to nissan" he says :D damn it ...

So id prolly just get a new box in that case .

How would u tell if ur thrustrace bearing was goin then ?

RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

When you press the clutch in, the clutch fork presses the thrust/clutch bearing into the clutch pressure plate fingers and the two parts of the bearings spin.

When you release the clutch the fork/bearing slide away from the fingers and the bearing spins as a complete assembly with the box input shaft. So it can't make any noise obviously.

If you press in the clutch in and its noisy then the clutch bearing would be shot, as the bearing will be spinning anytime the clutch is pressed to the floor.

If it isn't noisy it is fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...