Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

in the engine bay there is a fuse you can take out marked 4wd fuse, or under your dash i think its the top left or top right one, you can try by removing thefuse while the car is on, it will bring up the 4wd light, negative aspect is you will destroy a lot of rubber ripping hellies.

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hahaha glazed donuts!

i am told that you should take out the front driveshaft as to not damage the clutch pack. On street its fine cos the front wheels are in motion but on a 2wd dyno, the fronts are stationery.

There is a single power wire (according to the wiring diagram) that runs to the motor which pressurises the 4wd clutch pack. Putting this through a switch should provide an easy on/off. Unfortuantley last tme I just found the wire for the 4wd light....and have been too lazy to fix it. When I get it back I might try again.

  • 4 months later...
Guest DIRTgarage
At which end? The front diff (sump) or the transfer case? Isn't the flange on the front diff? If you disconnect there, won't the shaft turn and hit the bottom of the car?

Just remove the four bolts in the front of the shaft and lift it out....the socket it fits in is sealed from the transfer case...i.e. no oil/fluid will escape.

all too much effort removing front drive shaft...

just pull the 4wd fuse in the engine bay on a 32 gtr...

on 33 and 34 gtr s pull fuse and then crack the bleeder nipple on the transfer case to release the presure in the line which 33 & 34 s keep pressure in even when in 2wd mode.

hope this helps.

Yeah but all that means a pinch of poop to me as I am a noob at this whole "knowing mechanical parts" thing ;)

Just pulling a plug and pumping the brake is just about the limit of my minds ability :thumbsup:.

So question is which way is the correct way, Jay's pulling plug and pumping brake or Mark's pull fuse, crack bleeder nipple and release pressure?

And again with both methods, what is the correct proceedure for re-instating 4wd mode?

Thanks!

  • 1 month later...

Hiyas,

Just wanting to see if anyone had an update on the situation. Obviously the computer method sounds easiest but has anyone actually used it on the dyno?? any potential for damage, no chance of fronts engaging, etc?

Secondly just wondering if someone could step me through slowly the method to disconnect the front driveshaft (ie, raise on hoist, etc). Maybe deservers a FAQ.

Cheers,

Penfold

Just undo the 4 bolts connecting the front shaft to the transfer case, remove shaft and dyno away!

No need to pull fuses, no need to bleed stuff. It's a very simply 3 minute operation. You don't need to be a rocket scientist to do this.

This topic comes up every couple months now. Can a mod PLEASE sticky this thread before another pops up in the near future.

  • 2 weeks later...

Cool,

So I check it out. Just undo the 4 bolts from the front of the driveshaft (connecting to the front diff) and it should just pull out from the socket where it conect the transfer case. Looks good.

But, I just wanted to check how long the can be driven like this. Is there any potential for damage aside from the possibility of dirt/rocks accumulating in the sockets, etc. So say a 20 minute drive to dyno after hoist would be fine & then 20 minutes back to put driveshaft in should be fine.

I'll post a pic of driveshaft later & also when i do it a few shots of it coming out.

I've pulled the fuse in my dash a couple of times to finish off my rears before I get new rubber and have noticed the air-con doesn't work. Fan works fine but just not cooling down?? I wouldn't have thought these are interconnected. Strange....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, hard to find and a pain in the ass to change with the transverse engine. I’ve worked on a GTiR before and it’s not a job I’d ever want to do again. theres a company in South Africa that makes RS3 gearbox adaptors for the AWD SR20 including gearbox mounts, so I could modernise it and go a dual clutch with paddles. For now tho, it ticks all the boxes. Super cheap, can throw the kids and their junk in the back, and SR20 that I can turbo cheaply, a CVT that’s not a dog’s breakfast like the V35, and has 80% interchangeable parts with stuff I can source from the wreckers cheaply…. But it’s still unique. I love the wagon back of the Autech version. It’s cheap enough that I can buy another stock manual FWD Primera with SR20VE, swap the gearbox to the N15 pulsar short gear ratio box, swap out the brakes to the R32 ones I pulled off my 32, register it on club plates and take it racing. $1300 shipping from NZ. Heaps of parts and aftermarket builders for transverse SR20’s in NZ.
    • Hard to say, just pop the rocker covers off and have a look if you think it's cammed. You probably need to replace the valve cover gasket/half moons anyways.
    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
×
×
  • Create New...