Jump to content
SAU Community

Mines ECU - $350

ECR033
 Share

Recommended Posts

ECR033 Mentor

ECR033

Posted
Posted

SOLD

I've recently upgraded to a Power FC and therefore have no need to keep my Mines ECU any longer.

It's in perfect condition, has official Mines guarentee plaque and the Mines tamper proof seals are still in place. It's a straight "plug and play" swap for the stock ECU and was running well in the car up till the day I replaced it with the PFC. It's a nice, cheaper ECU upgrade than going for a PFC.

Only asking for $350 - can also arrange postage at buyers expense if not in Sydney.

Please post here or PM me if you're interested (can send photos if anyones interested).

Thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65581-mines-ecu-350/
Share on other sites
MXT Imports Enthusiast

MXT Imports

Posted
Posted

Hey, do you know if this ECU will fit into other Jap cars, i.e. 1JZ-GTE TT Soarer. Also, what benefits does this ECU offer, fuel cut? boost cut? And finally, how easy are they to get tuned and are there many places who can tune them? Definitely interested, so please let me know.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65581-mines-ecu-350/#findComment-1225188
Share on other sites
ECR033 Mentor

ECR033

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Forgot to add in my initial post that the ECU is from an R33 GTS25t

MXT Imports,

I'm really not sure if the ECU will fit directly into a 1JZ-GTE Soarer to be honest, although I'm a little doubtful unfortunately. As for benefits, the Mines ECU removes the factory speed limiter and boost cut and has a far more aggressive tune that the standard ECU. Unfortunately, the ECU isn't programable (as far as I know), so it would be difficult to modify the current tune of the ECU. I've read about a few cars on here using them that are pushing out decent power figures, but I would only recommend this ECU if you're only looking at modest upgrades to your car as the ECU will most likely be a limiting factor in your upgrades further down the track (due to the fact that it isn't easily tunable) if you're looking to push out big power i.e +200rwkw. But for the price, it's definately a good little upgrade if you're not in the position to buy a Power FC.

I'll post up some pics tonight mate :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65581-mines-ecu-350/#findComment-1225438
Share on other sites
Oosh Veteran

Oosh

Posted
Posted
Hey, do you know if this ECU will fit into other Jap cars, i.e. 1JZ-GTE TT Soarer. Also, what benefits does this ECU offer, fuel cut? boost cut? And finally, how easy are they to get tuned and are there many places who can tune them? Definitely interested, so please let me know.

Cheers

I think you're confusing this with a full ECU replacement (i.e PowerFC), this "Mines ECU" is a re-map of the stock R33 computer, there's no way in hell it'll work on a 1JZ. You'd struggle to make it work on any other RB series engine (i'm sure it's possible but hardly cost effective).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65581-mines-ecu-350/#findComment-1225623
Share on other sites
ECR033 Mentor

ECR033

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I'm interested. Any change of a getting a test drive with the ECU in place on my line?
It could be arranged provided that you're genuinely interested in purchasing the ECU. PM me if you'd like to discuss further.
what sort of power can you get from the ECU? i've got full 3' exhaust, exh cam, filter, FMIC, nismo fuel pump & reg, evc boost controller.
All depends on what boost you're running. Assuming you're running around 12psi, I'd estimate that you should have around 200-215rwkw (if not more). I'm not sure how much 'extra' power you'd get with the Mine's ECU, but it does compensate for some of the inherent inadequacies of the standard ECU when you start making minor mods to the car.
is the ecu for a manual
Yes - I had it in my manual R33. It may also be suitable for an auto, although I'm not sure on that...maybe someone else can clarify.

Apologies for not being able to post up pics as yet. My home PC is playing up and I couldn't get them up last night. I'll attempt to do so some time over the weekend.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65581-mines-ecu-350/#findComment-1227116
Share on other sites
ECR033 Mentor

ECR033

Posted
  • Author
Posted
have u got details on it  ? doubt it will suit rb20 so no good
Don't think it would be any good for an RB20 unfortunately - the ECU came out of my R33 GTS25T
what mods is it tuned for. i know these have nice aggressive ignition timing, but then the fuel maps are usually tuned for jap fule so its a good idea to retard the base timing a couple.

What kind of power did you get out of it??

I'm not too sure what mods it's tuned for exactly - the ECU came with the car when I bought it and all the research I've done on it since then hasn't really clarified the issue for me either. I personally never had the car on the dyno with that ECU (as I've since replaced it with a PFC), but the previous owner gave me a few pics of the car at a dyno day where it made ~160rwkw (apparantly running 9psi) with the Mines ECU and no other mods, which I thought was pretty good (probably a little too good to be honest). The car did run well when I had it in though - ran a 13.9 at WSID a few weeks ago (before getting the PFC) with minimal mods and a pathetic 60' time of 2.3 (my fault lol), so I would say that the Mines ECU does give a decent improvement over the Standard ECU
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65581-mines-ecu-350/#findComment-1230566
Share on other sites
ECR033 Mentor

ECR033

Posted
  • Author
Posted
$250?  

Sorry dont wanna be a prick but i'm on a tight budget.

Does this also remove the 180 speed limiter that the standard ecu has? I presume it does but please let me know.

Hey Mate,

Yep, you're right - it does remove the speed limiter from the Standard ECU.

As for price, whilst I feel like you're robbing me blind (as I've seen them sell for over $500 on here), you've got a deal provided you pay for postage (if necessary). I'm only selling it this cheap as I have no need for it any more - the unit is in otherwise perfect condition.

Let me know if you're keen to proceed and we can work out the details then.

Cheers,

Brenden

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65581-mines-ecu-350/#findComment-1238784
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...