Jump to content
SAU Community

See my car...

Prospector
 Share

Recommended Posts

Prospector Rising Star

Prospector

Posted
Posted

In my photo section of the gallery, you will se pics of my car which i have recently purchased and am awaiting shpment from japan...

I know alot of the things it has, but just wondering if people could tell me what parts they can see... just out of interest

Like, what type of suspension has purple tops? what ECU could that be? I see a HKS Actuator there, is it a HKs turbo? etc...

Thanks, Troy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65589-see-my-car/
Share on other sites
Prospector Rising Star

Prospector

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks guys,

Pretty much everything i can see on there is HKS...

The Apexi electronics thing is an AVCR.

Now i know what crap wheels im getting, and i didnt realise the nismo dash!

Im so pumped to get it, its going to be nuts.

Another question. For roadworthy, i can have the guages on the left of steering wheel, im think of using the double din unit for a single din Head unit, and the gap to put 3 smaller guages in. Just wondering if it will leave holes where they currently are? if so, can i replace the top dashboard part?

Troy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65589-see-my-car/#findComment-1225372
Share on other sites
Prospector Rising Star

Prospector

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The ajustable fuel pressure regulator, is that the silver bit on the turbo with "HKS" on it?

And water temp sensor is where?

so far alot of it is HKS...

And Defi guages are? how can you tell?

also can anyone answer my dashboard Q?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65589-see-my-car/#findComment-1226666
Share on other sites
Dahtone Racing Grand Master

Dahtone Racing

Posted
Posted

fuel press. regulator - is the silver thing behind the battery with hoses comming off it

water temp sensor - is in the top radiator hose, you can see a wire comming off it

defi gauges - its hard to tell if they are defi or not IMO but the look very similar they are a defect where they are now and will most likely have to be removed.

HKS above the turbo - thats the watse gate accurator valve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65589-see-my-car/#findComment-1226734
Share on other sites
silver gts-t Grand Master

silver gts-t

Posted
Posted
Now i know what crap wheels im getting, and i didnt realise the nismo dash!

Troy

hey troy good to see you found a 32, looks awsome, great colour!!

i dont know if your joking but your wheels arnt crap lol

and your cluster isnt nismo, just a normal 89-90 model dash instument.

do you know if the cage is welded?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65589-see-my-car/#findComment-1228818
Share on other sites
silver gts-t Grand Master

silver gts-t

Posted
Posted

ahh k didnt see the mismatched at first glance, do you know what rule your car will go under? cause the new rule requires the car to be standard.

and a welded cage wont be easy to remove.

ask around find out exactly what your going to b infor when the car gets here

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65589-see-my-car/#findComment-1228934
Share on other sites
Prospector Rising Star

Prospector

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Er... you heard wrong. ive been to syd and qld, and seen the car scene there, modded imports galor, cops dont mind until they start acting supid. cops here are a little less leniant. They zoom in on imports and P-platers. If they see them both mixed its even worse, they will wait for you to pull out of the petrol station and pull you over for a roadworthy test.

Im going to be forever geting canarys taken off. They are harsh as, if they want to find something wrong they will. We are allowed to have some sorts of cages but the restricions are crazy! ill have to look into i, i dont think 7 point is allowed :wassup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65589-see-my-car/#findComment-1229042
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...