Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey y'all,

Two questions:

Im thinking of takin my car down to whoop arse wednesdays but am a little shy about it as it is just a NAr33. Just wanna know from all you peepz who have been down, what kind of cars usualli rock up there?? Are we talkin hardcore racers with 10sec time slips or do u get regular street cars such as pulsars and lancers + civics etc. What kindov of crowd usualli rocks up there??

2nd question:

The reason that i want to go down theres is because my mate just got a 94 prelude si, and hes a real ****y bastard with it. Ive been in it and its got sum balls, who do u rekon would win in a drag??? Were both manuals, both stocker and both lower spec engines. ie no turbos or vtec. I realli wanna shut him down but im not to sure wether i can do it. Any tips for preperation???

BTW, takin it to the track cuz we all know street racing is not on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65844-whatz-whoop-arse-wednesdays-like/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Dude I had the same questions a couple of weeks ago. Do yourself a favour and just go.

The skill levels vary from the out and out must-be-asleep-at-the-wheel-their-reaction-time-is-so-slow to the professional elite drag racer.

I was originally worried, but seriously, you won't embarrass yourself unless something pops out the top of your hood. Go out there and have fun. It's well worth it.

Trust me when I say this: There are some seriously shit cars racing down at the 'plex, but they're having fun.

Let your tyre pressures down to 20psi.

Keep your RPM at a constant rate just before launching where you know you're just before loss of traction if you dump the clutch.

If you HAVE traction control, turn it off. You (by all accounts) should go faster without it.

Take a motorbike helmet, long sleeved jacket, jeans and shoes.

just go do it man, its good fun (unless you break something) last time i went down i went againt a hyndai lantra with a "TURBO" sticker on it ass end. basicly he ran a 17's all night.

you need a helmet, long pants and sleeve's, and you car's gotta be street legal, no leaks etc.

just do it!!!!

steve

I have had 52 runs in 1 night...

man that was a bad curry

kekeke

anyways dude definately do yourself a favour and go.. its hard to get past all the build up from other guys running 12's etc... cos it makes it seems like its a really really serious evening out.. and you get egged and covered in feathers if you don't crack a 14

but smeh.. nothing beats the first time, driving toward the lane, getting that nervous feeling as you start to doubt the skill that won you ever traffic light grand prix you have entered into. ....

you will love it.

try not to inhale the burnout smoke too much

i farken hope not. just had my clutch replaced abt 20000km ago. Onli thing is, i dont think the jack arse machined my fly wheel...

If i deflate my tyres to 20 psi, is that still safe to drive on all the way home?? or is a there a facility where i can pump them back up to at the motoplex?

ps. somebody gimme sum hope that im not gonna get shitted on by this lude :Oops:

Go and have some fun mate.

Clutch wise just 'drop it'. Sidestepping the clutch at the right rpm and feeding the throttle correctly will minimise wheelspin and the clutch isn't going to get worn out.

Take down the helmet, long sleave shirt and $30 and you can't go wrong :(

I've been meaning to go down too. Humm. Maybe......... whos up for a convoy this wednesday? we can meet somewhere central. I'm in and rather go down with fellow liners than by myself. Hey we acn even watch you chop your mate on the way down:)

i have been there only once and there was about 3 of you pissant skyliners. we just took the shit out of yas all night with your shit jap crap cars it was good fun!

rrrrriiiiiiiigggghht

ur a tool

hey ive got a n/a aswell and ive always wanted to take it down but just havent had the chance and im paranoid of stalling it at the line haha

i have been there only once and there was about 3 of you pissant skyliners. we just took the shit out of yas all night with your shit jap crap cars it was good fun!

If by taking the piss you mean the whole "your car is a rice burning 2.0/2.5/2.6L juice box" vs your "all iron, heavy as shit, 5.0L+ goon bag" then clearly you are endowed with a huge wang which your boyfriend must love. I'm so jealous. I wish I could have a big wang like you. Then i'd be able to feel like a big man posting on forums where clearly nobody gives a flying F**k what you think.

When I grow up, I wanna be just like you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...