Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I know you guys are eager.

So am I.

I have a Stock R34 Turbo here which I am highflowing and I'm dying to get these damn dut finished, but it seems that everywhere I turn, I run into obstacles.

I'll get there really soon.

I promise.

I have to, my next project is going to be wing mounts or Master Cylinder Braces!!

.OKAY NEWS TIME.

I have recieved word that the R33 prototype is complete!!

I will be getting it at the meeting on Tuesday night and so right after that I will be taking it to a fabricator who will make the bulk amounts. I will know then what the final price will be for the R33s. I would assume that the R34s will be the same price.

Looking good.

BASS OUT

  • 2 weeks later...

Bass

Not being rude or anything but whats the go??? Its been nearly 6 months since your first post. If you dont want to do it just say so, because i will take it over.

Actually if i can get my hands on one, i might start one.

Hi Robo.

I know this has taken quite a while to get together, and I realise that it has probably pissed some people off, but at every corner, I have met with problems.

We have made up a jig to weld the R33 ducts together, and within 2 weeks the work will begin.

We have also worked out a price for the R33s.

$100 for the duct.

This includes the duct in Stainless Steel, mandrel bends, two welds and two 1 inch beads on each end of the duct to make sure it doesn't slide off the rubber.

SO.

I will require full payments before we manufacture the ducts so later today I will post up some details for the payments.

Nothing will go ahead until everyone is paid, as I don't want to be left with a bunch of ducts and no money for them

Hey Bass - these sound good

Ill give you $50 for one

BAHAHA - just kidding - a light hearted reference to your thread regarding people making offers pissing u off :wassup:

Anyways - put me down for an R34 for my Neo6 Stagea if they're gonna be around the same $100 mark as the R33's... but lol where's your priorities - doin R33 model before your own R34 ones!?

Cheers mate

Adam

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...