Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Most of you have already read this thread so I'll cut to the chase.

I can get turbo's. Big one's, little one's, any one's yous all wants.

I am able to get almost anything but best prices are from Garrett in the GT range but can get good prices on any other turbos usually.

Do your research! Find the turbo you want and then tell me. I will try to help out as much as I can but I cannot choose for you. I cannot supply fitting kits with oil lines etc. but you can get these from another source. Garrett have a whole range of their turbos which are about to be released with the T3 turbine flange so it will be easier to choose after then.

Highflows : $1200-$1300 depending on condition add $300 for bigger internals including 360 degree thrust bearing.

GT28 (280 HP 0.64 A/R) : $1100

GT28RS (350 HP 0.64, 0.86 A/R) : $1550

GT25/30 : $1900 (still have to confirm upon request)

GT25R (500 HP 0.86 A/R) : $1750

GT30R : $1950

GT35R : $2000

GT40R :$2150

GT42R :$2250

T04B : $2200

T04Z (650 HP) : $1950

GT25/40 (700 HP) : $2100

GT35/40R (700hp )1.06 A/R Internal gate : $2000

*Ball Bearing GTR replacement turbos rated at 350hp each : $1350*

Please let me know if there are any errors that you can see and feel free to ask any questions.

These prices are NOT fitted. This will only put the turbo in your hand, or trailer - depending on how large you go.

Edited by 3lit3 32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66186-turbos-for-all/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 288
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Predator - This offer is valid pretty much until change professions

JapTaxi - I'll find out for you tomorrow

DangerDave - Yes they do. What did you have in mind? They also have access to state of the art VSR balancing equipment for absolute perfect balancing of shafts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66186-turbos-for-all/#findComment-1234165
Share on other sites

My Rb20 hiflow cost me $1200 to convert. Should be about the same. But the 25 highflow is really only capable of 300 engine horsepower safely. This means that if you push it to the max, it won't last very long.

You can usually only run around 12-14 psi still safely otherwise they burn out.

On the other point, I found this guy a while back and after the other mob stuffed me around I went back to him. I'll find out whose running his gear and get back to you. He's a nice bloke and always good for free information. He doesn't only specialise in passenger vehicles though. He does a lot of industrial and commercial work also so I dare say there are a few trucks running around with his gear on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66186-turbos-for-all/#findComment-1234215
Share on other sites

My RB20 Hiflow was capable of that horsepower figure.

At 17 PSI I put out 218 RWKW.

That 300 hp is roughly what they are rated to when hiflowed. It doesn't mean they are not capable of 450hp it just means they usually only last 12 months like that.

With your other question, the same turbo I am putting on mine would be a bolt on. It's a ball bearing turbo and rated at 450hp. usually 50hp higher can still be achieved SAFELY though. Plus being a BB turbo it will spool hell quick and will outlast a highflow RB25 turbo anyday, and for roughly the same price maybe a couple hundred more.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66186-turbos-for-all/#findComment-1234296
Share on other sites

They aren't like your local Autobarn, no disrespect intended.

But....think of this guy as a Turbo Engineer. That's what he is. He doesn't just pick new parts of shelves and tell you what his supplier spun to him last week. He can machine housings, grind shafts, balance shafts, rebuild turbos, supply new ones, measure parts...you get the idea.

He doesn't offer discount to just everyone though. He gives me discount as I am a mechanic and bring business his way. By offering discount here to everyone, I am creating business for him so he gives me good discount - it's a vicious cycle I know. The only way to get cheaper prices would be through me but you are more than welcome to go on your own behalf if that is what you wish. I am by no means forcing anyone to deal through me, but I am interested in offering great deals to people on the forums. I hope this has all made sense.

I need a exhaust housing for an unknown size TD06. If I drop it in, can they help?
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66186-turbos-for-all/#findComment-1234311
Share on other sites

Ok I asked him today about all above questions. The Hi-flowing of the RB25 turbo starts at $1100. He said the prices are hard to be competitive as there are a lot of backyarders doing it for a little cheaper. It also depends on the condition of your existing turbo. If there are oil leaks or damaged shafts it will cost extra.

The GT15/17...he is getting back to me on a price for this one. I didn't manage to call him back after work so I'll find out tomorrow (Friday).

One thing he did mention was that many off the shelf turbos are becoming very hard to get and may take a month or so to get as with some models the suppliers have run out of stock and are waiting on new shipments to arrive.

The exhaust housing for the TD06 - he wants to know what ratio you want to run as there are many different ratios available for the TD06. This turbo comes out on the Canter he told me and there is a wide variety of sizes.

Strutto - He does not know any particular vehicles driving around with his turbos because he supplies to all the local and not so local performance shops. He said that John Schott(sp) of Salisbury buys a great deal through him.

They do fitting and stuff like that also but his customer base is really based on supply most of the time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66186-turbos-for-all/#findComment-1235534
Share on other sites

Id be guessing a hiflow of an RB20 turbo would be much the same?

So going by what you got, what would be about the same as a hiflowed RB20 turbo in terms of price and power? Bolt on as well, preferably with the least amount of hassels in chaning lines etc.

Its not anywhere near urgent tho.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66186-turbos-for-all/#findComment-1235628
Share on other sites

Well, I haven't picked it up yet but tomorrow should be the day.

He told me it should bolt straight up but he won't know for sure until it arrives.

It's not an off the shelf jobby, it's a custom made turbo from Garrett. If it doesn't bolt up straight off then he can make any mods so that it does. As for the flanges, they should be all the same. I think the only difference might be the oil feed line. Mine has been threaded instead of the standard 2 bolt flange.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66186-turbos-for-all/#findComment-1235684
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...