Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, im mistaken.  GTRS is for SR engines so at this stage, if i can get the details for the garrett equivalent for the HKSGT2835 Pro S (0.68 A/R)

3LITE FORC3 - What's your price for the garrett equivalent for HKS 2835 Pro-S? (inc. oil lines, etc.)

  • Replies 288
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

OK, 1 x Garrett GT30R 0.82 Ex A/R Rated at 600hp has now arrived. Stuffs me why the others aren't in yet but I am still waiting. GT25/35's are on the shelf. So are GT25's rated at 350 and 400 hp. A whole range of T3 flanged turbos are to be released soon which I am also keen to see.

Answering the question above, The HKS GT28/35 Pro-S is a GT28 Turbine with a GT35 Compressor (52 trim). I'll find out tomorrow what code and price. None of these turbos come with oil and water lines. If you want oil and water lines....buy a HKS. I can't buy the kits seperate. You are only looking at around $200 to get braided lines made up anyway. As long as the manifold flange is the same style.

Daniel,

I need a turbo with 0.70 compressor and 0.82 turbine, internally wastegated, rated at around 700hp.

I was looking at the GT35/40R but I think it only comes in a 1.06 turbine internally gated.

Car is the R33GTST hiflow injectors, intercooler, fuel pressure regulator, Z32 airflow meter, Power FC etc.

Currently have a Hiflow but can only get 302hp aiming for 400+hp at the wheels

Cheers Dave

Answering the question above, The HKS GT28/35 Pro-S is a GT28 Turbine with a GT35 Compressor (52 trim). I'll find out tomorrow what code and price. None of these turbos come with oil and water lines. As long as the manifold flange is the same style.

Thanks.. post the price here when you have the details.

:D

Daniel,

 

 I need a turbo with 0.70 compressor and 0.82 turbine, internally wastegated, rated at around 700hp.

 

 I was looking at the GT35/40R but I think it only comes in a 1.06 turbine internally gated.

 

 Car is the R33GTST hiflow injectors, intercooler, fuel pressure regulator, Z32 airflow meter, Power FC etc.

 

 Currently have a Hiflow but can only get 302hp aiming for 400+hp at the wheels

 

 Cheers Dave

I am yet to see a turbo that is rated at 700hp that is internally wastegated. They don't have wastegates big enough and even if you could get one made, you would suffer boost creep something major. The fact is...if you want a turbo rated at 700 hp...you need to have external gate. I can probably get something made in internal gate but it will be totally useless.

I am yet to see a turbo that is rated at 700hp that is internally wastegated. They don't have wastegates big enough and even if you could get one made, you would suffer boost creep something major. The fact is...if you want a turbo rated at 700 hp...you need to have external gate. I can probably get something made in internal gate but it will be totally useless.

The GT35/40R 0.70 / 1.06 int wastegated is rated at 700hp according to the Garret catalog.

Can you source best price for external waste ates?? Whats the best turbo with 0.70 compressor / 0.82 turbine? Has to be rated at least 700hp to get the 400hp at the wheels!

Yes, I can get a T04B but I'll have to check on a price for you tomorrow.

No I can't get highmount manifolds or external wastegates...well I can but for not much cheaper than you can. Normal trade discount for things like that. Talk to Slide if you want manifolds or wastegates or visit his website.

How much horsepower/kilowatts do you want? eg. 380rwhp/280rwkw

What are you using the car for? eg. 80% street 20% Drag

When do you want boost roughly? around 1 bar at 3800rpm

Do you want power early or late in the rev? range nice low down, but strong midrange and top end

What Mods you engine has or is going to have including computers or exhaust? 3 " exhaust G-Reddy Computer, 600x300x80 Cooler, Cam Gears, AVCR, fuel pump, injectors, malpassi, all the usuals

Obviously, what car? Toyota Chaser with a 1jz-gte

Still running AFM or upgraded or no longer there? never had one

Custom exhaust manifold or standard?Custom Exhaust Manifold

External wastegate or internal? External

I was thinking a 600hp GT30 with a .82 rear housing from what people and info i have read tell me. What you reckon and what price

Just a question about the 2530...

what flange do they normally come with ? cos i heard they normally come with T2 but sometimes come with T3. Anyway i assume these come with T2 so i just have to buy an adapter kit to make it T3 is that correct ?

any ideas where i can get just the kit, cos your price for the 2530 (I know you still have to confirm) is really good but i have no idea how much a kit costs

How much horsepower/kilowatts do you want? eg. 380rwhp/280rwkw

What are you using the car for? eg. 80% street 20% Drag

When do you want boost roughly? around 1 bar at 3800rpm

Do you want power early or late in the rev? range nice low down, but strong midrange and top end

What Mods you engine has or is going to have including computers or exhaust? 3 " exhaust G-Reddy Computer, 600x300x80 Cooler, Cam Gears, AVCR, fuel pump, injectors, malpassi, all the usuals

Obviously, what car? Toyota Chaser with a 1jz-gte

Still running AFM or upgraded or no longer there? never had one

Custom exhaust manifold or standard?Custom Exhaust Manifold

External wastegate or internal? External

I was thinking a 600hp GT30 with a .82 rear housing from what people and info i have read tell me. What you reckon and what price

I'd reckon you are spot on. Prices for them change almost daily depending on how many he is buying but $1900-$2000 for the GT30R with 0.82 A/R. BTW good choice. They have one on the shelf ready to go I believe.

Yes that is correct. The 2530 is a T2 foot but I think you are still able to get it in a T3. I will see if I can find out tomorrow for you. If not, you would need an adapter plate made to suit it or get a custom manifold. The adapter plate a fairly easy to do but you would have to supply the manifold so that I can have it done for you. I don't know exactly how much it would cost but I can find out.

Answering the question above, The HKS GT28/35 Pro-S is a GT28 Turbine with a GT35 Compressor (52 trim). I'll find out tomorrow what code and price. None of these turbos come with oil and water lines. As long as the manifold flange is the same style.

Thanks.. post the price here when you have the details.

:P

Still waiting for the price....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...