Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You may also notice that you put the clutch fully down and you recieve a small notch of the gearbox when putting into gear/into another gear - this is because the clutch is not dissengaging properly because of the fault in the clutch hydraulic system (the master/slave cylinders)

Can you explain that a bit?

My clutch is sqeaking at the moment, and has for a couple of weeks. Sometimes first gear is hard to engage... Haven't had time to check if its internal or external, but I am guessing external.

Lucien.

Im currently in the process of making some beefed up clutch pedal boxes because the one in my r32 broke.

It managed to snap the two spot welds on the left side, put 2 cracks in the top (piece fell out after reomoving pedal box), and had a split in the top where it bolts up the top under the dash. This was after a year of using a 9 puk xtreme ceramic button clutch, and 6 months of an OS Giken twin.

Would there be any interest for some made up for r32 or r33? Just seeing as im making one, i may as well make a few....

will post pics of std r32 unit soon and then the beefed up version, made out of thicker steel etc....

Hi guys,

What does it mean if i have difficulty engaging 2nd gear.

This only happens when i reve the car in 1st gear very hard up till about 40-50km/h. I don't have this problem if I change to 2nd gear at about 20-25km/h.

I have no squeaks whatsoever and engaging every other gear is smooth.

Please help me out guys!!!

Dan

  • 1 month later...
Right, my clutch is getting worse.  Damn squeeky.  Reverse is a bitch to get in to and so is second gear.  Are these symptoms indicative of the boost/master cylinder leaking?

Cheers,

Lucien.

Sounds more like a gearbox problem than the clutch if gears are hard to get into.

Sounds more like a gearbox problem than the clutch if gears are hard to get into.

I don't think so. I think the clutch isn't engaging/disengaging properly. If I pump the clutch the shifts get easier, which to me suggests a seal is leaking.

Edit: Whoops.. "shifts" :)

Lucien.

if you can pump it up and it gets easier to engage gears then it's almost certainly an hydraulic problem like you suggested. get underneath the car and have a look at the slave (it's just bolted to the box) peel back the rubber boot and if there is fluid in there then it's leaking. a new slave is only like $70 or thereabouts so you should just buy a new one. very easy to change. if that doesn't fix it your master may be on the way too. unfortunately they cost more and are harder to replace.

Sorry, I got a phone call part way through the post so I didn't add all the details :)

The selection problem and the clutch noise seem to have arisen at about the same time. As the clutch has gotten louder the selection problem has gotten worse.

First gear can be tough to get in, but because the car is usually stationary, its not too bad. Entering second, however, is on the move and is proving more difficult. The problem is particularly evident if I haven't driven the car for awhile.

Richard: What about those seal replacement kits for the master cylinder? Worth a look?

Edit: few more things.

If the car is stationary and I go through the gears (clutch depressed) it feels fine. Likewise if the car is off, I can go through the box without any obvious problems.

Lucien.

ahhh, if car moves through the gears ok when stationary then it may not be hydraulics. they are worth replacing anyway though, and if they solve your problem that's a bonus.

if you are going to put new seals in your master you will need to have it checked as they don't always wear true. if it hasn't they can bore it out and install a steel sleve in there (which once assmebled with piston+seals will be better than a new stock one) only problem is a recconditioned master (bore, sleeve, piston, seals) costs about as much as a brand new one from nissan. it is better though.

as far as your problem goes it sounds like it *may* be gearbox related, BUT, I would certainly eliminate any clutch issues first (they are cheaper!). start with hydraulics (master, slave, line) then you will have to look at clutch (release bearing, pivot, pressure plate, friction plate), and if all those are ok it's gearbox time.

have you changed the gearbox oil since you got the car?

Gearbox oil was changed almost straight off the boat :) Its running Redline at the moment. Almost no shavings on the plug magnet.

My inclination is still that its hydraulic. I'll check out the slave cylinder as you suggested :) I have a replacement clutch line ready to install anyway, so that will eliminate another possibility.

Lucien.

yep when I got my car I replaced the slave. unfortunately it already had a nismo slave on there so whilst I got more positive clutch disengagement I did gain a MUCH heavier pedal feel (i have a twin plate OS Giken clutch), I also have a braided clutch line which I'm sure helps a little.

edit: what type of rediline oil are you using?

hahaha, yes I am burdend muchly.

Seriously though the twin plate clutch I have is a bit of a bitch. quite heavy pedal (used to be light with the nismo slave d'oh), very little communication (hard to judge 'take-up point), VERY BITEY, squels (un sprung, brass plates) and rattles when disengaged plus the box is quite tricky. MUST heal and toe down shifts, and when at a stand still always move it to second, then first.

However, when you are giving it some it alway works absolutely flawlessly. shifts oh so smoothly at 7000rpm++, does lovely smoking burnouts without clutch slips. launches at 6000rpm+ without slip or broken box. love it.

edit: I must say I have heard people advise against redline SP for GTR boxes. And I do know of one person who complained of gear selection problems after switching to it. I do believe it's what Redline reccomend though isn't it?

Took the car round to Grey Imports so they could have a look at the slave: sadly not a drip of oil. Nath played with the clutch and gearbox for a bit. Prognosis: expensive :rofl: The clutch is probably dead. I wouldn't be suprised if it has worn unevenly too given the way it sometimes dis/engages perfectly and others times refuses.

Now just to pick a clutch .. oh, and spread wide :P

Lucien.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...