Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

You know the hot air pipe that runs off the dump pipe up to the intake manifold just below the overboost valve on the L20ET? Will the engine still run OK if I blank off the intake side, as the RB dump pipe doesn't have a hole to let the hot air out?

Oh, by the way, this is a fairly straight foward conversion, but for a couple of niggly fit problems due to the proximity of the intake manifold on the L20ET engine, much thanks to David Griffiths Automotive, Moonah.

machg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66477-rb20-turbo-onto-l20et-again/
Share on other sites

that small pipe is only for the egr valve which is for emissions, unplug the egr unit, and block off the piping, and you will be sweet :)

good to see it went well im about to go and do it myself as my fatroy turbo is rooted. how much better does she go ?

and what was the minior problem in installing it ?

that small pipe is only for the egr valve which is for emissions, unplug the egr unit, and block off the piping, and you will be sweet :D  

good to see it went well im about to go and do it myself as my fatroy turbo is rooted. how much better does she go ?  

and what was the minior problem in installing it ?

The gentle radius 90 degree bend attachment on compressor output side of the turbo fouls the intake manifold. I was very lucky, saw this coming and managed to find a different attachment that bolted on to the output side of the turbo. (thanks again to David Griffiths Automotive) She's not running yet, I've got to get two broken studs fixed before I bolt it all back together.

machg

  • 3 weeks later...

G'day all,

Car is going, registered etc.

Performance wise, there doesn't seem to be much difference to the old turbo, maybe a little guicker getting onto boost, but as its running standard boost (hey, I guess the adapted wastgate actuator works!) goes the same as the old turbo, pretty much. Me thinks its time to wind up the boost a little. For on occasional fang on 95RON what would be a safe boost level? (still have the "overboost" failsafe fitted)

Thanks guys for all your help and advise,

machg

the design of the l20et head lets your run quite a high amount of boost, i was running 14psi with out a intercooler, and wasnt leaning out. and not pinging.

Id sit in 8-10psi, untill you intercool it, Also Rb20det injectors bolt right in and work fine, you need a bit of AFM adjustment tweeking tho. but is woth the extra fuel.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...