Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wondenrig if anyone can help me. I just got a stock 98 R34 GT-t two door. And had this banging noise in the rear suspension on the right hand side. So we hoisted it up and oils everywhere and the shocks are totally gone. The good thing is it is under warrenty so the dealership have to pay for it to be fixed. Currently looking at koni's or geniune nissan replacements. What do you guys recommend? Also seeing as i'm getting new shocks should i get new springs as well?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66638-best-suspension-for-r34/
Share on other sites

Late reply I know, but I only just came across your thread.

I have put Bilstein Shocks and Whiteline Springs on my 2001 R34GTX-T. It corners like on rails now. Don't forget to get the camber kit too. This could stop you scrubbing your tyres prematurely.

Hope this helps.

Wondenrig if anyone can help me. I just got a stock 98 R34 GT-t two door. And had this banging noise in the rear suspension on the right hand side. So we hoisted it up and oils everywhere and the shocks are totally gone. The good thing is it is under warrenty so the dealership have to pay for it to be fixed. Currently looking at koni's or geniune nissan replacements. What do you guys recommend? Also seeing as i'm getting new shocks should i get new springs as well?

How much did the bilsteins cost you? And do i only need the camber kit if i get lower springs? Thanks

Late reply I know, but I only just came across your thread.

I have put Bilstein Shocks and Whiteline Springs on my 2001 R34GTX-T. It corners like on rails now. Don't forget to get the camber kit too. This could stop you scrubbing your tyres prematurely.

Hope this helps.

I'm sure prices will vary state to state, but from my research I managed to pick them up locally for just over $1k for front and rear shocks.

As for the camber kit, 34's already have a fairly aggressive rear camber as stock, so I thought it was piece of mind to buy 2 kits to bring it to negative 1 camber. My thoughts were $120 bucks for 2 kits is cheaper than buying two new tyres.

I have never looked back. Having said all this, you haven't mentioned what you intend on doing with the car; daily driver, weekend track work or drift?

How much did the bilsteins cost you? And do i only need the camber kit if i get lower springs? Thanks

Mostly daily driver and going through the Adelaide hills on weekends.

Turns out though the dealer will only allow me to get stock nissan suspension put back on it and i have to get it done at a dealer that he choses. So i'm getting it done this thursday at Souther Motors Victor Harbor and they are just using genuine nissan replacement shocks, but thats ok it's better than having shagged suspension and now i can always save up for better ones in the future. Thanks for all the feedback guys and girls.

I'm sure prices will vary state to state, but from my research I managed to pick them up locally for just over $1k for front and rear shocks.

As for the camber kit, 34's already have a fairly aggressive rear camber as stock, so I thought it was piece of mind to buy 2 kits to bring it to negative 1 camber. My thoughts were $120 bucks for 2 kits is cheaper than buying two new tyres.

I have never looked back. Having said all this, you haven't mentioned what you intend on doing with the car; daily driver, weekend track work or drift?

Where did you get the bilsteins from?

Did you have any dramas with 2 door and 4 door differences?

There's so much bum info out there on R34's and particularly R34 4 doors.

Whiteline have told me they can't get ANY shocks to fit the rear of my car.

Thanks.

i also have HA teins on mine and i have to say best handling ive even had and no scrub either..

i have had a few people drive it as well and they all want there car to handle the same

but i believe teins are more for track than road but up to you really...

i have heard very good things about bilsteins cornering and the rest they are considered to be pretty much the best but also that comes to personal perference.

Hi Adam.

Technically Whiteline are correct. Bilstein have not made a shock specifically for the R34. But you can get the R33 GTST fronts and the R33 GTR rears (fork Type) to suit the R34.

There was no notable difference betweeen the 2 and 4 door. The whitleine springs worked a treat. The only thing that took a little extra time to fit was the rear springs as they had to be compressed first to be able to fit them. This is because the R33GTR rear shocks are slightly shorter, but the car still sits well and handles extremely well.

I will get some pics posted so you can see how it sits.

Whiteline can sell you the shocks but I bought my shocks from http://www.gsad.com.au/ as they were local and a little cheaper.

The part numbers FYI for the Bilstein shocks are

FRONT> F4-B46-1873-10

REAR> F4-B46-2108-H0

Where did you get the bilsteins from?

 

Did you have any dramas with 2 door and 4 door differences?

 

There's so much bum info out there on R34's and particularly R34 4 doors.

 

Whiteline have told me they can't get ANY shocks to fit the rear of my car.

 

Thanks.

i also have HA teins on mine and i have to say best handling ive even had and no scrub either..

i have had a few people drive it as well and they all want there car to handle the same  

but i believe teins are more for track than road but up to you really...

i have heard very good things about bilsteins cornering and the rest they are considered to be pretty much the best but also that comes to personal perference.

You forgot to mention that you have a nismo rear stabiliser bar + 245F and 265R tyres on :ufo:

hahhaah, bit of a whiteline fan i see :P

I think for the limited track time i'll be doing, the Bilstein and Whiteline Springs seems to be the go. So that would be the handling AND sports packs yeah?

What u running Bass?

cheers

cool, thanks for that.

How do you find ur setup with the Koni's and Whiteline springs?

I know that Whiteline revalve their shocks, so they may start out as Bilstein or Koni's, etc... do u get all ur stuff as part of a whiteline pack? U running all the other stuff as well, from the handling pack?

aren't coil-overs a bit harsh for our roads?

cheers,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...