Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im stuck big time

ive got a 32 gtr, avcr, exhaust, and filters.

with the avcr, it spikes like a fking cactus, i have 2 settings, .7 bar, and .9 bar. Both never drop below .9 bar, but in the menus it says .7 for A and .9 for B... wtf? neways the major problem is the fact that im getting .9 in 3rd 4th and 5th, but in 1st it ranges from 1.2 bar right up to 1.49 bar being the highest i have seen......yes it fkn scared me too as far as i know i have stock turbos.

so does ne1 know what i can do with it ?? is there any settings, duty cycles, gear judge, nething at all that u guys know of that i can use to correct it ?

any help at all would be great thanks every1, if any1 has a gtr and using an avcr, can u please pm me that would be great !

thanks in advance

steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66656-big-problemavcr-spiking/
Share on other sites

hi mate,

If you turn the AVCR off (as in not setting A or B) what does it read? my understanding is it should read 0.7bar (mine does), might prove it is hooked up properly

I also run it with 0.9bar, i will check what my cycles are for you when i get a chance

no, my understanding is it should stop at the factory boost level (.. mine certainly does.. and there is no sign of the original boost actuator in the engine bay (the car came with mine)

hopefully someone here can confirm for you, but it certainly is on mine :D

the way i would think it works is the controller keeps the wastegate open for longer periods of time (to make more boost), when the controller is off, then the normal pressure would apply (which the wastegate is set to 0.7)???

I fyou have the usual breathing mods then you will naturally see a small boost hike. So turn the thing to "Off" ... ti wont blow anything. the car will drive at whatever your lowest boost setting is.

I guess with exhaust etc you could be running as high as 12-13psi , if the restricot has been removed then you will actually be running 1 bar. So its not your AVCR thats spiking.

So lets assuem that with the theing in "off" it reads 0.85bar. You will never be able to run 0.7bar. Its impossible.

So lets say you want your settings to then be 0.90bar (A) and 1.0 bar (B). Set "A" to 0.90bar and duty to about 20. The thing will hold boost and afetr a few hits it will start to learn...which bring me to the next question. Who installed your AVCR? There are two variations on the install. Easiest way to identify is if your injector readins make sense or not. If they look a bit screwy then the thing should self learn a lot quicker.

For "B" set it to 1.0bar and again start duty cylce around 25, if you fall a bit short of makign 1.0bar then try a duty of arounf 28-30.

if your car was an R32 GTST i could tell you how to set it up easy, but id suspect GTR would be a little difference with regards to the duty setting.

But first things first. turn it "off: and give it a good hit in 3rd and 4th gear and see what your peak recall is for boost

The AVC-R is an amazingly powerful EBC, download the manual and read it, many times, from what you are talking about here, ti seems that your Gear based Feedback is set incorrectly and your gear based initial duty cycle is also incorrect.. These are critical elements in tuning your AVC-R properly, I spent some hours and lots of fuel tuning my AVC-R on my 180, tuning on a quiet road (lots of quiet straigh road up here.)

Basically if your feedback setting is too fast or slow in high gears the AVC-R will do one of three things, fluctuate rapidly, drop boost, increase boost. The effect that you get is also dependent on the Duty cyle of the RPM based settings..

Here is the process that I found best to tune my AVC-R: (may or may not work for you)

  1. Set the intended boost pressure at about 0.2 kg/cm above your wastegate actuator level
  2. Using the process from the manual, get the AVC-R into learn mode and drive around until it can hold the boost pretty closely.
  3. Pick a gear to tune the start off with and stick with it (2nd gear is good)
  4. Set the gear based initial duty cycle to a figure where it doesn't spike coming onto boost
  5. Set the gear based feedback to a level where it holds boost through to red line (or theoretical max).. Tuning too high or low will exhibit strange results, this can take some time. This is also a broad range setting so get it as best you can
  6. Adjust the gear based initial duty cycle so that boost comes in as early as possible without any spiking (this is always fun..)
  7. Go back to RPM based duty cycle and iron out the dips and peaks, the AVC-R will actually do this itself in Fuzzy logic mode if you have gear based learning turned on, but it is slow to do so.
  8. Tune the next gear in a similar fashion to above..
  9. After each gear is tuned you will notice that the numbers in the Gear based feedback settings follow a pattern, this is where the speed of your actuator is coming into play..

All of the functions int eh AVC-R are there for a reason, the fuzzy logic has boundaries, some of which I find to be a little restrictive, but considering that the unit needs to be able to go into "anyones" vehicle they have cut it down far enough.. In the cases where the self learning doesn't work quick enough or doesn't adjust far enough, it needs to be helped along the way with some manual intervention..

If you can read and understand the manual and what each function does than the AVC-R is a perfect EBC for you, if you don't understand it, take it somewhere and have it professionally tuned..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...