Jump to content
SAU Community

Reccomendations for modifying a stock r34 GTT

Edstrodamous
 Share

Recommended Posts

Edstrodamous Enthusiast

Edstrodamous

Posted
Posted

Howdy, i finally after 9 months of looking and bidding i got my bayside blue r34 GTT, and it is about to get on a boat in japan woohoo

Anyway

as you all know the car will be stock when i get it. It will have a nissan sports kit (correction) already on it and thats about it

I would like recommendations on 2 things:

1. What are the first 5-10 modifications you would do to the car (not including rims), and in which order.

2. and of those what brands/ models would you go for.

i already have some ideas in mind for mods but just want to get some extra input

Cheers

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
Posted

Full exhaust from the turbo back, including CES Racing Split dump and front, big cat converter, cat back exhaust.

That's step one and will cost about $1500-$1700.

Then FMIC and Power FC all at once.

That's step 2 and 4 and will cost about 1000-1500 for FMIC and about 1500 installed and tuned for the PFC

Then full suspension job including Whiteline Coil overs, sway bars, Pineapples and all bushes replaces.

Step four would cost near enough to $3500 I think

Then a new clutch to handle the grunt you will soon want more of.

Including a light flywheel and clutch, probably close to $3000 installed.

From there, Cams, Turbo, Brakes, Rims, Stereo, Guages, Seats and the list is never ending.

Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?

BASS OUT

AFRO Rising Star

AFRO

Posted
Posted

Woohoo,, another bayside blue!!! well done,,

i've got the same kit as yours,, just a c-west front bar :)

what yr is yours? mine is 2000

whats the specs?

manual?

kms?

how much did u get it for if u don't mind me asking,,

once again,, congrats on the buy,,,, blue is the best colour :rofl:

welcome to team bayside, hehe

afro

docterdan Newbie

docterdan

Posted
Posted

Mine is silver

Love the blue though.

HPI used an R34 gt-t as a project car and it is featured on there dvds vol 3 to like vol 8 or something. They went

1. Apexi GT cat back exhaust and front pipe (stock cat) $1800

2. Apexi AVC-R ($530 through group buy)

3. frount mount intercooler.

4. suspension + bushes and the works

5. Power FC

6. Hi-flowed the turbo. (it blew on a track day runing .9 bar)

7. clutch (tripple place os job)

The injectors will only handle about 1 bar of boost. eg. 210kw at rear wheels so you will have to change them if you want much more.

Have fun im doing mine at the moment

IanH Collaborator

IanH

Posted
Posted

For more power -

1 - Full turbo back exhaust

2 - Better turbo (either stocker re-cored or HKS etc) turnedwith a Z32 AFM

3 - Fueling (pump & injectors) and PowerFC to map the new stuff

4 - Cooling (FMIC/Oil Cooler/Radiator)

5 - Clutch (stock R33GTR one can be used)

But I'd add better suspension and brakes TBH as well.

Edstrodamous Enthusiast

Edstrodamous

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Woohoo,,  another bayside blue!!!  well done,,

i've got the same kit as yours,, just a c-west front bar  :(

what yr is yours?  mine is 2000

whats the specs?

manual?

kms?

how much did u get it for if u don't mind me asking,,

once again,,  congrats on the buy,,,, blue is the best colour  :)

welcome to team bayside, hehe

afro

mine is a 2001 stock as grade 5 outside and A inside, cost me about, well enough over 40 once complianced its got 46000KM's on it i wanted less but you can't be picky if you want a blue , but then a 31000 km one came up 4 days later dammit worse condition though.

Edstrodamous Enthusiast

Edstrodamous

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Full exhaust from the turbo back, including CES Racing Split dump and front, big cat converter, cat back exhaust.

That's step one and will cost about $1500-$1700.

Then FMIC and Power FC all at once.

That's step 2 and 4 and will cost about 1000-1500 for FMIC and about 1500 installed and tuned for the PFC

Then full suspension job including Whiteline Coil overs, sway bars, Pineapples and all bushes replaces.

Step four would cost near enough to $3500 I think

Then a new clutch to handle the grunt you will soon want more of.

Including a light flywheel and clutch, probably close to $3000 installed.

From there, Cams, Turbo, Brakes, Rims, Stereo, Guages, Seats and the list is never ending.

Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?

BASS OUT

CHeers for that i am intending to do full exhaust first followed by FMIC and power FC. then see what is up any recommendations on brand, i was thinking custom exhaust though

Edstrodamous Enthusiast

Edstrodamous

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Mine is silver  

Love the blue though.  

HPI used an R34 gt-t as a project car and it is featured on there dvds vol 3 to like vol 8 or something. They went

1. Apexi GT cat back exhaust and front pipe (stock cat) $1800

2. Apexi AVC-R ($530 through group buy)  

3. frount mount intercooler.  

4. suspension + bushes and the works

5. Power FC

6. Hi-flowed the turbo. (it blew on a track day runing .9 bar)

7. clutch (tripple place os job)

The injectors will only handle about 1 bar of boost. eg. 210kw at rear wheels so you will have to change them if you want much more.  

Have fun im doing mine at the moment

yeah i have HPI vol 3 and i saw the end now i just have to get the rest to see what they got up to. Problem i have is finding suppliers for such goods as tassie bites for bits so i will have to order online. any ideas where?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...